Removing a broken easy-out should be done with a right-hand rotating
tool, since the easy-out is intended to dig in with left-hand rotation.
Then once you get the easy-out removed, you can switch to a left-handed
cutting tool to go at the original fastener.
I also think the diamond burr is the way to go to remove the easy-out,
unless you can get someone to EDM it.
I don't recall it being mentioned, but what is it that has the stuck
fastener again? If it's aluminum then use phosphoric acid (Coke!) to
erode the steel fastener and easy-out...
Theo
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry &
> Maureen (Mo)
> Sent: August 17, 2009 10:59 AM
> To: Paul.Tonizzo@sybase.com; tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] easy outs
>
> Paul,
>
> Trying to remove an easy out with a drill bit might be a big
> challenge. Easy outs are harder than most drills, not
> withstanding carbide. You haven't said what size the broken
> stud is; if it's small (like less than 1/4 inch) I have had
> good luck using a Dremel tool with diamond bits (burs)
> (Harbor Freight, like item #36252-1ADH) use lots of cooling
> fluid. In fact you could use that super duper penetrating
> combo of ATF/acetone (50/50 mix) that guys were talking about
> a while ago. Just don't get it so hot that the acetone
> ignites. HA. That might even make getting the stud out easer
> also. You could also use WD-40; the main thing is to keep the
> tool cool.
> If the stud is bigger you could still use a bur it would just
> take longer.
>
> Good luck
>
> Jerry Christopherson
> 9473187
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