Larry, Chris and the list,
Maybe I should clarify the "DOT 5" I mentioned in an earlier post.
The Lucas DOT 5 I mentioned should not be confused with silicone based DOT
5. It is indeed REAL DOT 5 brake fluid. The bottle reads:
Lucas DOT 5.1 Brake Fluid, 1 Litre
It also notes that it "Contains Polyalkylene Glycol....Brake Fluid Will
Damage Paintwork"
Or those who want the extra oomf or heat protection of REAL DOT 5 brake
fluid, this is the stuff. But it is probably best suited for those who
drive their car more often than I do. As I mentioned in a later post, for
the longevity of my system I am considering going to silicone. If I was
sure "sleeving" the cylinders would correct the problem, I would then go
that route and continue to use the Lucas stuff.
For those who cannot locate Lucas DOT 5.1 brake fluid, I go my jug at
Autotech Sports Tuning in San Juan Capistrano, CA. I am sure they have an
800 number, but I don't have it.
Hope this helps. I have no intention of starting a debate....like I said,
just a clarification. Larry makes some great points about the SILICONE DOT
5.
Regards,
Allan
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Paulick [mailto:larry.p@erols.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 12:24 PM
To: Allan Connell
Cc: Chris Vaught; tiger list
Subject: Re: Brakes
Chris, let me give you another view to DOT 5 "Silicone" brake fluid.
DOT 5 will not harm your paint, and doesn't absorb water, like DOT 3 or 4.
DOT 4 Must be bleed out of the entire system, before using DOT 5 or you
will get soft spongy brakes.
DOT 5 will let water in the system, and then because it is heavier than
DOT 5 it will go to the low points, which could be the brake lines,
which if are old, and no longer have a protective coating will rust from
the inside. Looks great on the outside, but.
DOT 5 fluid is not used in racing cars, even though it has good heat
properties.
I used DOT 5 once in a Vette, and did not know this and had soft brakes,
even though I bleed the brakes repeatedly.
Brake bleeding is not that hard, and can be done by one person. There
are 2 systems that work great for bleeding yourself.
E-Z Bleed uses low pressure, tire pressure at 5-15 lb., with a resiovor
of fluid, and pressurizes the system through the master cylinder. You
open the bleed valve at each wheel and you are finished. One of my cars
requires bleeding 1/yr and it takes me 30 minutes. Most of the time
jacking up the wheel and taking off the tire.
There is a another system that is sold by several people, which uses a
spring loaded ball at the bleeder fitting, and you pump the brakes, and
the ball prevents air from coming into the system.
Brake Fluid is cheap, and with a little experience bleeding the lines
takes no more time than changing the oil.
Larry
|