Bob,
Since the silicone fluid is not hygroscopic (don't absorb water), it doesn't
need
the regular flushing of the standard fluid to get the absorbed moisture out.
I've
heard about water getting into the synthetic systems, in some un-described path,
and laying there doing damage. Or being left over from the 'last war'. Can't
understand that, unless it was there before the fluid was added.
A good practice is to flush the new system out with fresh Castrol LMA, which
absorbs water and sets the seals, and then displace it with the synthetic. Any
residual assembly moisture will have been absorbed by the Castrol, and displaced
by the synthetic.
There may be other reasons for not using the synthetic, but I am not convinced
that, when properly done, synthetic is a corrosion/water issue. At DOT 5, it
isn't a temperature issue, either. A recent note about the orientation of the
bleeder screw (on top), and my own experience with a poorly fitting bleed hose
letting air in, have convinced me that it is easy enough to screw this operation
up, regardless of the fluid,. The new ball-check valves sound interesting.
One of the biggest design flaws in our hydraulic systems is the lack of a
barrier
between the fluid and the air in the reservoir. The reservoir caps have
'breather' holes in them to allow the fluid to change level, as it is needed, by
letting air in. Can't draw fluid from the chamber, otherwise. American cars
have, for many years, put a bellows design rubber like seal between the cap and
the fluid. This allows air to enter the cap opening, and fluid to enter the
system, with the bellows bottom following the surface, and preventing moisture
laden air from contacting the fluid and contaminating it. These are available
as
replacement units at auto parts stores, sometimes in dual cylinder pairs that
can
be cut apart, but I don't know if they fit the clutch and brake reservoir
diameters.
Tiger Technologies had some really nice units made up a while ago, that really
fit
the stock brake and clutch M/C. I just don't know if they are still available.
If they are, get some. They work fine.
Those ball check bleed valves would greatly simplify bleeding, if you can get
someone to keep the reservoir full. They, at least, don't have to keep creeping
under the car, with a poorly fitting wrench, and back out again to fill the
reservoir. You only need three. Two for the front, and one for the rear. Do
the
left front disc first, then the right, then the rear.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
B9472289 < important in your life >
< and don't let it get away!>
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