Mike,
After you remove the rust with a wire brush, scraping, sanding etc., I
recommend you treat the bare metal (espaecially where the rust is) with
phosporic acid (metal prep) You can get it from a professional auto paint
supplier or Home Depot carries a product called Jasco Prep and Prime. It
runs about $6 a quart. It will do a couple things for you. It converts the
rust to an inert material that will not continue to deteriorate, and it
will reach into those place that can't be reached by sanding and brushing
(pits and crevaces in the metal) and clean them too (leave it on for
several minutes or oeven until it dries). Any areas that turn black
indicates there is still rust there. You can either leave the black
material or continue to work it until it's gone. Once you've done that, you
should scuff the surface good with a scotch brite pad or some 120-180
sandpaper, then use a degreaser to make sure the surface is clean. Most
auto parts store sell a spray degreaser. Then use your Rust-o-leum primer.
Be aware that automotive paints will sometimes lift Rust-o-leum and other
spray can primers, but if you're going to use another spray can paint, you
should be OK.
If the area to repair is small and you are not actually trying to fill any
dents, I would recommend you use Evercoat Metalglaze instead of bondo. You
will be able to apply it in thinner coats, it's easier to sand and it's
less pourous. It is thinner, so you mix it up in smaller batches, but it
sound like you don't need much repair. Any holes should be reinforced with
some sore of mesh. Once you have finished sanding the repaired surface, use
the degreaser again before painting. Metalglaze can be purchase from an
auto paint supplier.
The key to a successful, lasting repair is the preparation, so make sure
the surfaces are clear before you apply paint .
Gerard
At 9:59 AM -0400 9/15/00, Graziano, Michael wrote:
>All,
>
>I'd like to start working on that bit of rust on my lower quarterpanel
>(behind the rear passenger wheel). It's limited to the piece below the
>moldings, so paint matching doesn't have to be perfect.
>
>My question has to do with rust and bondo. After I wire brush out the rust,
>I'd like to put some type of rust inhibiter to prevent the cancer from
>spreading. Spray Can Rustoleum Primer has always worked well on my wrought
>iron fences and lawn furniture. But I'm not sure if the bondo will hold to
>the paint. If I apply the bondo directly to the bare metal, I'm worried
>the water that's trapped might cause the rust to begin again. This needs to
>last a few years as I can't spend the money right now to have the work
>professionally done.
>
>I only need a light layer of Bondo to fill up the rust depleted portion of
>the fender. It shouldn't be more than 1/4" at the worst spot.
>
>Is spray can primer OK after the the bondo work has been done? Any
>recommendations or words of advice?
>
>Mike
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