spitfires
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: New lister, quick question...

To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: New lister, quick question...
From: Michael Hargreave Mawson <OC@46thFoot.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 20:54:34 +0000
On Fri, 31 Jan 2003, at around 11:07:33 local time, 
Robert.Haigney@anixter.com wrote:
>I'm off to look at a 78 Spitfire tomorrow, what problem areas should I look
>out for....??

Dear Robert,

Off the top of my head...

Rust.
Just about anywhere, but especially chassis, front bulkhead (behind 
wheel arches), front of bonnet, windscreen surround, sills, foot-wells, 
boot floor, rear wheel arches, and rear wings behind the wheel arches. 
Take a magnet with you to test for filler.   Take a screwdriver too (for 
poking through rotten chassis members that have been covered in 
underseal).   A rusty car is a money pit (ask me how I know...).   A 
rust-free car is a miracle (or Californian).   Try not to buy the 
former.

Engine.
Usual stuff - check for smoke from the exhaust and so on.   Replacement 
engines are reasonably cheap to obtain and fit, but why court trouble?

Gearbox.
Test drive the car, and try racing changes between every gear (up and 
down).  If they are all sweet, you are well ahead of the game.   Check 
that the OD (if any) works.   Replacement gearboxes range from cheap (no 
overdrive) to expensive (overdrive), and are a sod to fit (90% of the 
interior has to come out...).

Hood.
Erect it, and take it down.   Should be reasonably easy to do, and it 
should fit tightly and snugly when erected.    Check for cracks in the 
windows.   Do all test drives with the hood up (makes unpleasant noises 
easier to hear).

Seats.
Check that the driver's seat-back is adjustable (any passengers can just 
damn' well cope!).   Check that the foams are firm and supportive. 
Whilst it is easy enough to obtain replacement foams, refitting the seat 
covers requires endless patience and specialist tools.

Interior Trim.
Often worn out or "repaired" (by a blind orang-utan).   Not too 
expensive to replace, but a pain, and a good negotiating point for you 
if in really poor condition.

UJs.
Listen for a ticking noise from the back on cornering.   If you get one, 
you need new UJs.   Cheap as chips, but a pain.

Suspension.
Check that the rear spring hasn't snapped in several places (wish 
someone had given me this advice before I bought my '77...).

Electrics.
Don't worry - they'll probably be shot, but they are easy to work on and 
fix.   If anything doesn't work, make a big fuss about it, get the 
seller to knock off a hundred quid on that basis, and then fix it in 
fifteen minutes with the help of this list!)

Extras.
An overdrive (in working order) is worth paying a premium for, as is a 
factory hard-top.

Good luck!    Let us know how you get on.

ATB
-- 
Mike
Ellie  - 1963 White Herald 1200 Convertible GA125624 CV
Connie - 1968 Conifer Herald 1200 Saloon GA237511 DL
Carly  - 1977 Inca Yellow Spitfire 1500 FH105671

///  spitfires@autox.team.net mailing list
///  or try  http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
///  Archives at http://www.team.net/archive


<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>