I'm in the middle of doing a dash for a friend. I didn't peel or sand the
old veneer off, as he had stripped off all the varish and sanded it smooth.
I used waterproof (exterior) carpenters wood glue and clamped with about 15
clamps and blocks the new veneer on.
Then cut out the holes roughly with a sharp craft knife. Finished by
sanding the holes with a small drum sander put in my drill press. You can
get them from over 1" down to 1/2".
Painted the reverse and in the holes again to prevent the dash from warping
due to moisture ingress on the back side as opposed to the front varnished
side..
Used Spar varnish, a urethane marine varnish, up to 10 coats right now, wet
sanding after 3 or 4 coats.
I was tempted to try that one part clear resin, but got scared and stuck
with the traditional methods - varnish and brush!
Looking good.
No photos, but a description of building a dash on www.griffco.ca/interest
Look under Fred's Spitfire Hangar.
Cheers, Fred
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Willner" <dwillner@icontech.com>
To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 5:36 PM
Subject: Re-Veneering dash boards
> Guys,
>
> I'm going to refinish my dash in the next week or so and wanted to see if
> there are any good tips, or things to avoid, etc. before I begin. It's an
'80
> and some of the veneer has a few cracks and some small chips, but no
warping.
> I'm planning on removing the old veneer and then applying new Walnut
veneer
> with a cherry stain, and then finishing it with about 5 coats of a good
> semi-gloss marine polyurethene with all the usual wet sanding and ample
drying
> time between coats. I plan on using white transfer "prestype" for the
"LIGHTS"
> lettering before the poly. Any BTDT advice would be appreciated. I'll
also
> document and photo the exercise. TIA
>
> Dave Willner
> 59 TR3A Apple Green
> 80 Spitfire Carmine Red
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