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Re: Carb Rebuild Questions (long)

To: "Bruce Hestand" <bhestand@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Carb Rebuild Questions (long)
From: Douglas Braun & Nadia Papakonstantinou <dougnad@bellatlantic.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 10:02:23 -0500
At 05:54 PM 12/9/00 , you wrote:

>I'm trying to rebuild a Stromberg 150 cd carb.  I think it's a CD4T (original
>carb on engine FM130466 UCE).
>
>1) I can't get the needle out of the air valve.  I took out the grub screw on
>the side.  I can wiggle and spin the needle and pull it out approx. 1/8"
>against the spring which pulls it back inside the air valve when I let go.  I
>am concerned that pulling much harder on the needle might screw it up.  The
>needle seems to sit inside of a sleeve which doesn't budge at all.  Shouldn't
>the needle and sleeve come out as a unit? I have the carb adjustment tool
>(read allen wrench) and have backed the adjustment off many turns
>counter-clockwise as the manuals suggest.  Where do I go from here?

I believe you have to remove the grub-screw AND screw the adjusting
thing (with the special tool) counter clockwise until the needle
comes out.  Once the needle is out, you can see and understand
how all the needle-related parts actually work.
Note that it is very BAD to force the adjustment too far counter-clockwise
without removing the grub screw.

If the adjuster works OK and the dashpot does not leak too much,
and the needle is not very worn, there is no real need to remove it.

Generally these carbs suffer more from excessive fiddling than from
insufficient fiddling.  If you find something broken, it is likely
been broken by some PO f*%#ing with too much.

>2) The needle is cruddy (car has been sitting for 15 years).  If I can get it
>out, should I automatically replace it or is cleaning and reusing it a better
>bet? 

Clean the needle and look for signs of wear: a flattened section
on one side where it has been rubbing against the jet.
Usually the jet wears more, since it is softer brass, and the needle is steel.
Unfortunately, the jet is much harder to replace...

>  Grose-Jets?

Simply avoid installing a poorly-made replacement jet.  Avoid cheapo
made-in-Cambodia rebuild kits.

Also make sure that your fuel pump and lines are not full of crud,
or it will eventually clog up any jet, Grose or otherwise.  Does your
fuel pump have a removeable filter screen?  If so, don't forget to clean it
as well as blowing clean all the crud that settles in the little bowl
under the screen.

>3) How do I go about cleaning out the fixed jet inside the carb body.  Is
>bathing the dis-assembled carb in a bucket of carb cleaner the only way to
>clear this up?  Is this jet replaceable?

Take off the piston assembly so you can look straight down into the jet.
Shove the little plastic tube of a can of Gumout into the jet and blast away.
Since you will probably have the float chamber open, you can also do it from 
below.

A new jet has to be pressed into place.  It is really a specialist job.

>4) There is a black 1/4" plastic spacer between the carb and the intake
>manifold.  It has formed a serious attachment to the carb. Is there a trick
>for getting this loose or just shred it and get a new one?

How about simply leaving it in place?
See my remarks above regarding excessive fiddling.  :-)

Doug Braun
'72 Spit

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