Hi Jim,
Originally these springs had little rubber buttons between the leaves, not
much friction reducer there!
Graham.
----- Original Message -----
From: James Libecco <jfl@neoucom.edu>
To: MikeC <mikech@sprynet.com>; spit <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2000 6:30 AM
Subject: Re: rear spit springs
>
> Mike,
> That would be exactly of which I speak. I like the idea of the teflon
> strips, unfortunately I have none lying about currently. So far lithium
> grease is doing the trick, but teflon sure sounds much more fun.
>
> jim
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "MikeC" <mikech@sprynet.com>
> To: "James Libecco" <jfl@neoucom.edu>; "spit" <spitfires@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, March 03, 2000 8:11 PM
> Subject: Re: rear spit springs
>
>
> > When you say *measuring from the bench to the base of the mounting
> block*,
> > I'm assuming its sitting on the bench with the arch upward and measuring
> to
> > the bottom of the spring pack where it mounts to the diff. I've also
> heard
> > of putting thin teflon strips between the ends of the leaves to reduce
> > friction.
> > MikeC
> >
> >
> > >Mike,
> > >The spitfire competition manual suggests that you de-arch the rear
spring
> > to
> > >one inch in height when the spring is on the workbench, measuring from
> the
> > >bench to the base of the mounting block. This will really drop the
rear
> of
> > >your car.
> > >I just installed a used spring in the rear, which was about 2.75 inches
> in
> > >height. This dropped the rear to a more acceptable height and really
> > helped
> > >with the rear end jacking. I think I will remove it soon and have it
> > >de-arched to about 1.75 inches, giving me the ideal height according to
> me.
> > >The competition manual also suggests cutting off the ends of the second
> > >spring where it meets the ends of the first spring to prevent binding.
> > This
> > >is important once you look at it. You should also grind the points
where
> > >the leaves touch each other and lube well to ensure smooth suspension
> > >action. You can take this as far as you like, but all of this should
not
> > >cost very much to do, I don't suggest arching springs on your own.
> > >
> > >
> > >As for altering the mounting point, I think this is very feasible. You
> > >would need a very solid block to raise the mount and grade8 hardwear,
but
> I
> > >strongly considered it recently.
> > >
> > >A great trick is to lose those double threaded mounting bolt and
install
> > >regular grade8 bolts of appropriate length. Greatly, greatly
simplified
> > the
> > >mounting process.
> > >
> > >Also, someone just posted about making the tool to raise the rear
spring
> > >while installing/un-installing the spring. I have found that the four
> foot
> > >yellow handle from my jack, inserted at the proper angle, did this job
> > well,
> > >with no need for fabrication.
> > >
> > >jim libecco
> > >jfl@neoucom.edu
> > >76 spit 1500 FSP
> > >
> > >>Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 20:08:13 -0700
> > >From: "MikeC" <mikech@sprynet.com>
> > >Subject: springs
> > >
> > >>Thanks to all who gave me advice on the front springs. I haven't
> decided
> > >what I'm going to do yet.
> > >Now I've got a question of the rear.
> > >
> > >>The rear of my Spitfire sits pretty high, higher than the front is
> > >currently
> > >sitting. Its high enough that I can see quite a bit of positive camber
in
> > >the rear wheels. Is there any way to lower it slightly, other than
> putting
> > >extra weight in the trunk? The spring is old and crusty, so I would
have
> > >though it would be sagging by now. Is it possible to put a spacer on
top
> of
> > >the diff, where the spring mounts, so the spring is mounted higher in
> > >relation to the body? How do people lower the rear in a competition
car?
> > >Thanks
> > >MikeC
> > >
> >
>
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