Carter, thanks for the tip. This defect is something that I considered and
think it is something I managed to avoid by initially using bolts that were
too long, running them down gently and then cutting to get a length that
went as far down as possible without bottoming out. Hopefully this will
prevent any problem. So far no issues and has been immensely easier to work
with since the change.
thanks,
jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carter Shore" <clshore@yahoo.com>
To: "James Libecco" <jfl@neoucom.edu>; "spit" <spitfires@autox.team.net>;
<mikech@sprynet.com>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2000 7:31 PM
Subject: Re: rear spit springs
> Just a caution about using bolts in place of studs for
> the rear end.
> The cast iron used for the casing is rather brittle.
> When starting to thread a bolt into the case, if only
> 1 or 2 threads have 'caught', the case material may
> 'break out' if under any tension (as in, trying to
> compress the spring down onto the case using the
> bolts). This is not much of a problem with comp arched
> springs, but street springs are a different matter.
> A reasonable compromise is to use studs on the front
> side, bolts on the back side (or vice versa).
> YMMV,
>
> Carter Shore
>
> --- James Libecco <jfl@neoucom.edu> wrote:
> >
> > Mike,
> > The spitfire competition manual suggests that you
> > de-arch the rear spring to
> > one inch in height when the spring is on the
> > workbench, measuring from the
> > bench to the base of the mounting block. This will
> > really drop the rear of
> > your car.
> > I just installed a used spring in the rear, which
> > was about 2.75 inches in
> > height. This dropped the rear to a more acceptable
> > height and really helped
> > with the rear end jacking. I think I will remove it
> > soon and have it
> > de-arched to about 1.75 inches, giving me the ideal
> > height according to me.
> > The competition manual also suggests cutting off the
> > ends of the second
> > spring where it meets the ends of the first spring
> > to prevent binding. This
> > is important once you look at it. You should also
> > grind the points where
> > the leaves touch each other and lube well to ensure
> > smooth suspension
> > action. You can take this as far as you like, but
> > all of this should not
> > cost very much to do, I don't suggest arching
> > springs on your own.
> >
> >
> > As for altering the mounting point, I think this is
> > very feasible. You
> > would need a very solid block to raise the mount and
> > grade8 hardwear, but I
> > strongly considered it recently.
> >
> > A great trick is to lose those double threaded
> > mounting bolt and install
> > regular grade8 bolts of appropriate length.
> > Greatly, greatly simplified the
> > mounting process.
> >
> > Also, someone just posted about making the tool to
> > raise the rear spring
> > while installing/un-installing the spring. I have
> > found that the four foot
> > yellow handle from my jack, inserted at the proper
> > angle, did this job well,
> > with no need for fabrication.
> >
> > jim libecco
> > jfl@neoucom.edu
> > 76 spit 1500 FSP
> >
> > >Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 20:08:13 -0700
> > From: "MikeC" <mikech@sprynet.com>
> > Subject: springs
> >
> > >Thanks to all who gave me advice on the front
> > springs. I haven't decided
> > what I'm going to do yet.
> > Now I've got a question of the rear.
> >
> > >The rear of my Spitfire sits pretty high, higher
> > than the front is
> > currently
> > sitting. Its high enough that I can see quite a bit
> > of positive camber in
> > the rear wheels. Is there any way to lower it
> > slightly, other than putting
> > extra weight in the trunk? The spring is old and
> > crusty, so I would have
> > though it would be sagging by now. Is it possible to
> > put a spacer on top of
> > the diff, where the spring mounts, so the spring is
> > mounted higher in
> > relation to the body? How do people lower the rear
> > in a competition car?
> > Thanks
> > MikeC
> >
> >
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