Mike,
That would be exactly of which I speak. I like the idea of the teflon
strips, unfortunately I have none lying about currently. So far lithium
grease is doing the trick, but teflon sure sounds much more fun.
jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "MikeC" <mikech@sprynet.com>
To: "James Libecco" <jfl@neoucom.edu>; "spit" <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2000 8:11 PM
Subject: Re: rear spit springs
> When you say *measuring from the bench to the base of the mounting
block*,
> I'm assuming its sitting on the bench with the arch upward and measuring
to
> the bottom of the spring pack where it mounts to the diff. I've also
heard
> of putting thin teflon strips between the ends of the leaves to reduce
> friction.
> MikeC
>
>
> >Mike,
> >The spitfire competition manual suggests that you de-arch the rear spring
> to
> >one inch in height when the spring is on the workbench, measuring from
the
> >bench to the base of the mounting block. This will really drop the rear
of
> >your car.
> >I just installed a used spring in the rear, which was about 2.75 inches
in
> >height. This dropped the rear to a more acceptable height and really
> helped
> >with the rear end jacking. I think I will remove it soon and have it
> >de-arched to about 1.75 inches, giving me the ideal height according to
me.
> >The competition manual also suggests cutting off the ends of the second
> >spring where it meets the ends of the first spring to prevent binding.
> This
> >is important once you look at it. You should also grind the points where
> >the leaves touch each other and lube well to ensure smooth suspension
> >action. You can take this as far as you like, but all of this should not
> >cost very much to do, I don't suggest arching springs on your own.
> >
> >
> >As for altering the mounting point, I think this is very feasible. You
> >would need a very solid block to raise the mount and grade8 hardwear, but
I
> >strongly considered it recently.
> >
> >A great trick is to lose those double threaded mounting bolt and install
> >regular grade8 bolts of appropriate length. Greatly, greatly simplified
> the
> >mounting process.
> >
> >Also, someone just posted about making the tool to raise the rear spring
> >while installing/un-installing the spring. I have found that the four
foot
> >yellow handle from my jack, inserted at the proper angle, did this job
> well,
> >with no need for fabrication.
> >
> >jim libecco
> >jfl@neoucom.edu
> >76 spit 1500 FSP
> >
> >>Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 20:08:13 -0700
> >From: "MikeC" <mikech@sprynet.com>
> >Subject: springs
> >
> >>Thanks to all who gave me advice on the front springs. I haven't
decided
> >what I'm going to do yet.
> >Now I've got a question of the rear.
> >
> >>The rear of my Spitfire sits pretty high, higher than the front is
> >currently
> >sitting. Its high enough that I can see quite a bit of positive camber in
> >the rear wheels. Is there any way to lower it slightly, other than
putting
> >extra weight in the trunk? The spring is old and crusty, so I would have
> >though it would be sagging by now. Is it possible to put a spacer on top
of
> >the diff, where the spring mounts, so the spring is mounted higher in
> >relation to the body? How do people lower the rear in a competition car?
> >Thanks
> >MikeC
> >
>
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