When I rebuilt a 78 diffy to replace my ailing 4.11 I replaced it spacer and
all. Finding that collapsable spacer put my rebuild on hold for nearly a
week. Found one at BPNW, I think. And incindentally I was rebuilding it
all, new seals and bearings everywhere. Complete disassembly and a washing
in the jet washer. So... impacting that sucker was perfectly valid :)
Ryan
>From: Joe Curry <spitlist@gte.net>
>Reply-To: Joe Curry <spitlist@gte.net>
>To: Alan Lemen <alemen@ftconnect.com>
>CC: Huw Upshall <hupshall@wolfenet.com>, Ryan Smith
><shmitty99@hotmail.com>, spitfires@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Diff pinion nut removal
>Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 17:07:09 -0700
>
>Alan Lemen wrote:
> >
> > Huw, all the bits are marked for alignment. Thing is I just need to
>change the
> > one seal so the diff is on the car. The iron piece is done. I was hoping
>that
> > having it against the chassis would suffice. I am looking for something
>to
> > extend the leverage on the wrench.
> >
> > Anyway since they probably just torqued it up originally in the factory
>and
> > never had to do any alignment I have not worked out exactly why things
>need to
> > be so exact. who cares if the wheels are turned a bit more or the diff
>is on the
> > next teeth on the crown and pinion. It is a continuous thing. I have not
>figured
> > the reason. As long as the nut is torqued on right and the pinion and
>drive
> > plates are connected ( still don't see what the need to be aligned to
>the old
> > location either). Anyone know?
>
>I do!
>
>On later model 1500's (I don't know at which point they started), the
>pinion bearing preload is determined by that collapsible spacer. If you
>don't get the adjustment exactly correct (or darn near exact) the
>loading on the bearing will not be correct and guess what? Yep, the
>bearing will wear out prematurely.
>
>Needless to say that is a much bigger problem than a leaky pinion seal!
>
>Regards,
>Joe Curry
>
>--
>"If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
> -- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer
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