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Re: Draining/restoring Spitfire Tank

To: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>
Subject: Re: Draining/restoring Spitfire Tank
From: "Patrick D. Baize" <ArtVanGo@swbell.net>
Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 11:24:32 -0500
If you have metal fuel lines, I would replace those also

Pat  '63 spit

Atwell Haines wrote:

> At 01:09 AM 5/16/99 -0400, Bruce Hestand wrote:
> >I'm beginning restoration on an '80 Spit that's been sitting with a half
> >tank of gas for 15 years so it
> >seems like a good idea to drain the tank and flush it out.
>
> I agree.  Change all those old rubber fuel lines, too.
>
> >
> >Q1) What's with the inverted cone?  Is this natural or one spooky rust out?
>
> As Joe said, that was the unleaded fuel nozzle restrictor.
>
> >Q2) Is there a need, and a method, to get more gas out before attempting
> >tank removal?
>
> All the holes are at the top of the tank, so it is easy to remove from the
> car without spilling any gas. The more gas you remove the lighter it will
> be, but you don't have to kill yourself to remove the last ounce.
>
> >     I only took out a gallon or so, and the gauge has always read empty but
> >does it work?
>
> More than likely the sender float has filled with gas and has 'sunk'.  You
> can check the sender, once removed, with an Ohmmeter. New floats are
> available in the US for $7 -10.
>
> >    I could try something like tapping a line to the output side of the
> >mechanical fuel pump
> >    and cranking the engine (pull coil wire first) to push fuel out but this
> >seems sub-optimal.
>
> Don't bother.
>
> >Q3)  I've seens solutions for DIY gas tank cleaning/restoring.  Is this a
> >reasonable DIY or
> >   better off to pay to have it done?  The chemicals don't seem to run
> >around $70, what's
> >   the cost to have it done (and not have to deal with the chemical
> >mess/disposal yourself).
> >   The tank doesn't appear as if it will need any welding/brazing.
>
> There are differing schools of thought on cleaning or sealing the inside of
> the tank. If you have $$$, get it professionally cleaned, tested, and
> repaired.
>
> Some people swear by the sealer/coater products available from the usual
> Britpart vendors.  Others have seen problems caused by the stuff flaking
> off after a while.  YMMV.
>
> If you are on a budget, remove the tank, then remove the sender.  Put a
> handfull of glass marbles in the tank and shake vigorously.  Then rinse the
> flakey stuff out of the tank, let dry, and reinstall.   My '79's was fine
> after this procedure.  (We are lucky because the US-spec pressure-sealed
> tanks resist rust-inducing moisture accumulation.)
>
> Good Luck.
>
> Atwell Haines
> '79 Spitfire
> Succasunna, NJ USA
> "If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried."




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