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Same goes for safety wiring; I learned the hard way you have to tuck the
ends back where they can't reach out and rip your hands.
On 11/17/2020 9:59 AM, John Innis wrote:
> About 1000 years ago when I was in A&P school I was taught to do style
> #2. THe main reason is that someone will eventually need to reach
> their hand into a tight spot past the cotter pin you have installed.Â
> If you used style #2, you are much less likely to leave sharp edges
> that will shred the hands of the next guy who has to work on this
> thing. I actually had an instructor who would look for stuff like
> this and if she found that you left a sharp edge somewhere she would
> deliberately run you hand across it in a way as to cause just enough
> damage to get the point across. Not a lesson I needed to have repeated.
>
> On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 11:40 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net
>
> Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I
> thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:
>
> What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've
> watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage,
> Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In
> It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a
> Day'
> hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually, it's
> 'Type
> 1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub axle for
> example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is that the
> best
> way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in and
> secure
> it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely undone.
> However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned maintaining
> my own
> aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the
> tightening
> direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So, when
> applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the cotter will
> just fit in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where you
> can't
> see the eye of the cotter from the side--snug against the side of the
> nut's slot so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the
> upper half of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the
> lower
> half at the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't
> doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to
> remove if necessary).
>
> FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few
> psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal
> retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.
>
> Bob
>
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Same goes for safety wiring; I learned the hard way you have to tuck
the ends back where they can't reach out and rip your hands.<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/17/2020 9:59 AM, John Innis
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CANuE7YDZ+521pBjma6Z+D=AeWuxXdkODgzDoj_WB+uW7f08LmA@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">About 1000 years ago when I was in A&P school I
was taught to do style #2. THe main reason is that someone will
eventually need to reach their hand into a tight spot past the
cotter pin you have installed. If you used style #2, you are
much less likely to leave sharp edges that will shred the hands
of the next guy who has to work on this thing. I actually had
an instructor who would look for stuff like this and if she
found that you left a sharp edge somewhere she would
deliberately run you hand across it in a way as to cause just
enough damage to get the point across. Not a lesson I needed to
have repeated.<br>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 11:40
AM Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";
moz-do-not-send="true">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Got
some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I
<br>
thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:<br>
<br>
What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin?
I've <br>
watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage,
<br>
Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate
Engine In <br>
It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call
It a Day' <br>
hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually,
it's 'Type <br>
1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub axle
for <br>
example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is that
the best <br>
way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in
and secure <br>
it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely
undone. <br>
However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned
maintaining my own <br>
aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the
tightening <br>
direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So,
when <br>
applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the
cotter will <br>
just fit in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where
you can't <br>
see the eye of the cotter from the side--snug against the side
of the <br>
nut's slot so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I
bend the <br>
upper half of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip
the lower <br>
half at the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than
that isn't <br>
doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be
easier to <br>
remove if necessary).<br>
<br>
FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a
few <br>
psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the
anal <br>
retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was
kidding.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
</blockquote>
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</blockquote>
<br>
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