Re: [Shop-talk] Cotter Usage

[Donald H Locker <dhlocker@comcast.net>]

[Re-sending to include the list.]

I learned this method (and found support here
https://www.kitplanes.com/best-practices-safety-hardware/) to put the
pin in with the eye visible from the end of the stub, the wrap the legs
around the nut one in each direction.

Reasons for this way: if one leg fails, the other retains the cotter
pin; the cotter pin will not rotate about its axis and turn a weak spot
toward the nut's castellations; it is always easy to see that both legs
are secure and present; easy to pick the cotter pin back out because the
eye faces the operator and the legs are easy to access.

I also found this interesting article:
https://www.dropsonline.org/assets/documents/DROPS-Reliable-Securing-Rev03-Low-Resolution.pdf

Rather long, but very thorough, though more oriented to lifting rigging
and fasteners for same.

Donald.
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On 2020-11-17 12:36 p.m., Bob Spidell wrote:
> Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I
> thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:
> 
> What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've
> watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage,
> Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In
> It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a Day'
> hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually, it's 'Type
> 1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub axle for
> example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is that the best
> way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in and secure
> it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely undone.
> However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned maintaining my own
> aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the tightening
> direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So, when
> applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the cotter will
> just fit in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where you can't
> see the eye of the cotter from the side--snug against the side of the
> nut's slot so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the
> upper half of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the lower
> half at the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't
> doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to
> remove if necessary).
> 
> FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few
> psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal
> retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.
> 
> Bob
> 
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