Iâ??ve generally used #1 but, as you said, either should be fine.
I stayed up the other night trying to decide if anal retentive was a single
word, 2 words or hyphenated. Still donâ??t know.
Keep well.
Peace,
Pat
Pat Horne
We support Habitat for Humanity
On Nov 17, 2020, at 11:40 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I thought
I'd pose an arcane question to the List:
What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've watched the
pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage, Fantomworks, etc. and the
'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy
Paint Job On It and Call It a Day' hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit
different. Usually, it's 'Type 1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached
(using a stub axle for example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered
'Is that the best way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in
and secure it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely undone.
However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned maintaining my own
aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the tightening
direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So, when
applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the cotter will just fit
in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where you can't see the eye of
the cotter from the side--snug against the side of the nut's slot so as to
resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the upper half of the cotter back
over the nut/spindle, and snip the lower half at the edge of the nut, figuring
anything longer than that isn't doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO,
and may be easier to remove if necessary).
FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few psychology
classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal retentive stage' of child
development; I (think) he was kidding.
Bob
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