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Hi Bob,
I usually use #2 as it lets the "head" sit neatly into the slot and it
makes it easier to pry up and remove the long tail to extract the cotter.
It also seems to have fewer opportunities to cut your hand when you are
working on it.
I have one of these on the rear axle of my Harley which is exposed, so
appearances and sharp edges matter a bit more.
best,
doug
On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 9:40 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I
> thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:
>
> What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've
> watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage,
> Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In
> It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a Day'
> hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually, it's 'Type
> 1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub axle for
> example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is that the best
> way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in and secure
> it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely undone.
> However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned maintaining my own
> aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the tightening
> direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So, when
> applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the cotter will
> just fit in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where you can't
> see the eye of the cotter from the side--snug against the side of the
> nut's slot so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the
> upper half of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the lower
> half at the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't
> doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to
> remove if necessary).
>
> FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few
> psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal
> retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.
>
> Bob
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>
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Bob,<div><br></div><div>I usually use #2 as it lets the=
"head" sit neatly into the slot and it makes it easier to pry up=
and remove the long tail to extract the cotter. It also seems to have fewe=
r opportunities to cut your hand when you are working on it.</div><div><br>=
</div><div>I have one of these on the rear axle of my Harley which is expos=
ed, so appearances and sharp edges matter a bit more.</div><div><br></div><=
div>best,</div><div><br></div><div>doug</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_=
quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 9:40 A=
M Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>bspidell@comcast.=
net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"marg=
in:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1e=
x">Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and=
I <br>
thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:<br>
<br>
What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've=
<br>
watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage, <br>
Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In <b=
r>
It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a Day' =
<br>
hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually, it's '=
;Type <br>
1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub axle f=
or <br>
example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is that the best=
<br>
way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in and secure =
<br>
it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely undone. <br>
However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned maintaining my own <br=
>
aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the tightenin=
g <br>
direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So, when <br>
applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the cotter will <br>
just fit in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where you c=
an't <br>
see the eye of the cotter from the side--snug against the side of the <br>
nut's slot so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the <br=
>
upper half of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the lower <br>
half at the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't <=
br>
doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to <br>
remove if necessary).<br>
<br>
FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few <br>
psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal <br>
retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
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ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk"; rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive"; rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/dirtbeard@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.=
team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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