| To: | shop-talk@autox.team.net |
|---|---|
| Subject: | Re: Mandrel Bent Tubing |
| From: | Paul Parkanzky <parkanz1@msu.edu> |
| Date: | Thu, 24 Apr 2003 13:40:01 -0400 |
You're absolutely right. I was under the impression that to make
a bend like that in 1.75 x .120 DOM tubing that I would have to do it on a
mandrel bender. The way that I've sketched it out so far I will never need
to bend beyond 90. I'll let the main hoop 'flare out' about 3 or 4 degrees
on each side to give it a bit more lateral strength. The halo will
basically be a square (I'd like to do it with a single u-shaped piece
welded into the main hoop. I'll try to use as many straight runs as
possible so that they're as strong as they can be.
Thank you all for the help that you've given me. I'm sorry to
have given you the impression that I was trying to skimp on the
cage. Actually, I want something a lot safer than the Autopower bolt-in
that is in there now. I was just going to add door bars and a Petty bar
and realized that I could start over and have a much better cage. I was
just hoping to do the work myself (with the help of my future father-in-law
the expert welder with equipment worth drooling over).
So what is the verdict? Will that Harbor Freight bender make good
bends without compromising tubing strength? That we can afford...
~Paul
>Check your cage specs carefully. Its unlikely that they specify mandrel
>bends specifically, they probably say something like "with smooth
>continuous bends and no evidence of crimping or wall failure". As long as
>you stay within the bend radius limits of the material, a bender like the
>Model 3 from JD Squared is what you want.
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