To: | shop-talk@autox.team.net |
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Subject: | Re: Mandrel Bent Tubing |
From: | Paul Parkanzky <parkanz1@msu.edu> |
Date: | Thu, 24 Apr 2003 13:40:01 -0400 |
You're absolutely right. I was under the impression that to make a bend like that in 1.75 x .120 DOM tubing that I would have to do it on a mandrel bender. The way that I've sketched it out so far I will never need to bend beyond 90. I'll let the main hoop 'flare out' about 3 or 4 degrees on each side to give it a bit more lateral strength. The halo will basically be a square (I'd like to do it with a single u-shaped piece welded into the main hoop. I'll try to use as many straight runs as possible so that they're as strong as they can be. Thank you all for the help that you've given me. I'm sorry to have given you the impression that I was trying to skimp on the cage. Actually, I want something a lot safer than the Autopower bolt-in that is in there now. I was just going to add door bars and a Petty bar and realized that I could start over and have a much better cage. I was just hoping to do the work myself (with the help of my future father-in-law the expert welder with equipment worth drooling over). So what is the verdict? Will that Harbor Freight bender make good bends without compromising tubing strength? That we can afford... ~Paul >Check your cage specs carefully. Its unlikely that they specify mandrel >bends specifically, they probably say something like "with smooth >continuous bends and no evidence of crimping or wall failure". As long as >you stay within the bend radius limits of the material, a bender like the >Model 3 from JD Squared is what you want. /// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try /// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/shop-talk |
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