Would it make any sense to put a couple of very small self taping screws in
the dent area to help to bond, due to such small arrears or just rough it up
good? I have 2 to be done.
Thanks in advance,
Regards,
Don.
----- Original Message -----
From: "K. M. Lehmann" <klehmann@bentonrea.com>
To: "PeeWee" <PWeee@earthlink.net>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Ding spots - covered by other sheet metal?
> I agree and a little filler only makes it stronger and eliminates the
> posibility of distortion known to the heavier body metals, which can only
be
> eliminated by grinding thinner and shrinking.
> Lee
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "PeeWee" <PWeee@earthlink.net>
> To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 7:58 AM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Ding spots - covered by other sheet metal?
>
>
> > I've heard of this but they heat the area up just a little and use a
> > plunger type deal to suck or pop up the dent. But I think this it's for
> > the new car bodies with a thickness of a piece of paper. I don't think
> > it would work on our rigs. Those small little dings on his truck...I'd
> > just use some filler.
> > Pee-Wee.
> >
> > Randall J. Krebs wrote:
> >
> > >Ryan,
> > >
> > >I was on a Triumph website where they suggest that for hail damage you
> could
> > >heat up the area at the edge of the dint and it would pop out. Then
> > >immediately apply a wet rag to the area. Naturally your paint is
burnt.
> > >
> > >I have not tried this, so . . . . . .
> > >
> > >Randy
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Bob Chansler" <rchansl@attglobal.net>
> > >To: "Ryan Sain" <rsain@gte.net>; "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > >Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2003 11:07 PM
> > >Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Ding spots - covered by other sheet metal?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >>Ryan,
> > >>If they're not too deep you can do as Lee recommends and just fill
them.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >The
> > >
> > >
> > >>old method of dent pulling is to drill a hole in the metal and put a
> screw
> > >>in it and use a puller to pull the metal out. Then you have to fill
the
> > >>hole. The new method is to weld pins to the metal with a stud welder,
> pull
> > >>out the dent with a puller, and then clip off pins. This new stud
welder
> > >>
> > >>
> > >is
> > >
> > >
> > >>about $200 bucks so it may not be worth it for you to buy one just for
> one
> > >>job. Look at the Eastwood site as Devin recommends and you can see the
> > >>
> > >>
> > >stud
> > >
> > >
> > >>welder.
> > >>Not sure what the recommended maximum thickness is for body filler.
> > >>Bob Chansler
> > >>----- Original Message -----
> > >>From: "Ryan Sain" <rsain@gte.net>
> > >>To: "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > >>Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2003 3:30 PM
> > >>Subject: [oletrucks] Ding spots - covered by other sheet metal?
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>Well,
> > >>>
> > >>>Please look here:
> > >>>
> > >>>http://www.wsu.edu/~rsain/dingspots.jpg
> > >>>
> > >>>In this pic (not of my cab - but another list member's) I put some
> green
> > >>>dots where I have a few small radial type dents. Given that all these
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>spots
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>have a piece of sheet metal covering them on the opposite side of the
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>cab -
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>how the %$^# am I supposed to hammer them out? Or do I?
> > >>>
> > >>>Should I just cut a little section out of the metal on the inside so
I
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>have
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>access then hammer away? Or should I simply fill em and forget em?
> > >>>
> > >>>None are bigger than .75" in diameter. The truck is a 59
> > >>>
> > >>>TIA,
> > >>>
> > >>>- Ryan
> > >>>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >Randall J. Krebs
> > >
> > >Visit our websites www.offshore-tax.com
> > >And www.EverettKrebs.com
> > >And www.DrsInc.ca [site devoted to Professional Incorporations]
> > >And www.RCAs.info [site devoted to Retirement Compensation
Arrangements]
> > >
> > >======================
> > >NOTE: This e-mail message is intended only for the named recipient(s)
> above
> > >and may contain information that is privileged, confidential and/or
> exempt
> > >from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this
message
> in
> > >error, or are not the named recipient(s), please immediately notify the
> sender
> > >and delete this e-mail message.
> > >
> > >NOTE: Ce courriel est destini exclusivement au(x) destinataire(s)
> mentionni(s)
> > >ci-dessus et peut contenir de l'information priviligiie, confidentielle
> et/ou
> > >dispensie de divulgation aux termes des lois applicables. Si vous avez
> regu
> > >ce message par erreur, ou s'il ne vous est pas destini, veuillez le
> mentionner
> > >immidiatement ` l'expiditeur et effacer ce courriel.
> > >======================
> > >
> > >[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a
> name of Randall J. Krebs.vcf]
> > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > --
> >
> > 1958 GMC 336 V-8 Factory Napco Suburban Carryall
> > 1959 GMC 270 inline 6-cyl Suburban Carryall
> > 1955 to 1959 GMC website: http://members.tripod.com/P-Wee
> > Become a Member, Restore a Napco! http://www.napco4x4.org
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|
