Forklifts; worth their weight in gold
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob J." <robertjacobs@ureach.com>
To: "_Oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Pulling/Installing 235
> Probably helped that I had a fork lift to do the lifting. You are
probably
> right if I had used a standard cherry picker.
>
> Rob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jack Halton" <safesix@earthlink.net>
> To: "Rob J." <robertjacobs@ureach.com>
> Cc: "_Oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 10:43 AM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Pulling/Installing 235
>
>
> > I don't think you'll be able to get the engine raised high enough to get
> it
> > out over the grille, but I guess it's worth trying, with the hood off
and
> > trans removed you may be OK. Good luck!
> >
> > Jack
> >
> >
> > On Tue, 13 Aug 2002 08:42:23 -0700 "Rob J." <robertjacobs@ureach.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > I decided I'm going to try it with just the radiator, radiator support
and
> > front grille top cover removed...but not the grille bars themself
> (although
> > I did remove the top bar since it is separate. I'll let you know what
> > happens. Haven't decided if the hood will come off or not, but since I
> > pulled the tranny separately, maybe it can stay in place?
> >
> > Rob
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jack Halton" <safesix@earthlink.net>
> > To: "Rob J." <robertjacobs@ureach.com>
> > Cc: <old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>; "_Oletrucks"
> > <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 12:03 PM
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Pulling/Installing 235
> >
> >
> > > Rob,
> > >
> > > You can remove the sheet metal and core support if you like, but it's
> not
> > > totally necessary. With an engine hoist and leveler attachment, you
can
> > > "finesse" the engine and trans out (or in) by tilting it and raising
it
> is
> > > stages. I've done this just by removing the grill and radiator, even
> with
> > the
> > > hood and "doghouse" still in place. This with a Saginaw 4-speed
> attached,
> > but
> > > shifter removed - if your four speed doesn't protrude above the floor
> > level,
> > > you should be OK.
> > >
> > > As for attachment points, take a couple of old head bolts, or anything
> > with
> > > the same thread, and weld on some lifting hooks. You can use them on
> both
> > the
> > > old engine and then to put it back in. Then just put the correct ones
in
> > and
> > > re-torque once the motor is all happy in its new home.
> > >
> > > The above have worked well on several in/out jobs on my '51 GMC and I
> > can't
> > > think of any reason a Stovebolt would be any different.
> > >
> > > Jack / Winter park FL
> > > On Mon, 12 Aug 2002 09:35:37 -0700 "Rob J." <robertjacobs@ureach.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I will be pulling the old 235 and installing the new one shortly. I
> plan
> > to
> > > remove entire front end sheet metal and radiator core support. I have
a
> 4
> > > speed in this, but with open driveline (no torque tube). Will I be
able
> > to
> > > pull the entire drive train (engine/tranny) as a combo, or should I
> remove
> > the
> > > tranny first?
> > >
> > > I assume, whatever I do to remove, just reverse to install the new
> engine,
> > > right?
> > >
> > > Finally, what is the best way to hook up to the engine to lift it
> > > (with/without tranny attached)? I can use head bolts (one front, one
> > rear) on
> > > the old engine, but would prefer not to do that on the new one going
in.
> > If
> > > possible, I'd like to have it completely put together for that
> > process....is
> > > this possible?
> > >
> > > Rob
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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