I don't think you'll be able to get the engine raised high enough to get it
out over the grille, but I guess it's worth trying, with the hood off and
trans removed you may be OK. Good luck!
Jack
On Tue, 13 Aug 2002 08:42:23 -0700 "Rob J." <robertjacobs@ureach.com> wrote:
I decided I'm going to try it with just the radiator, radiator support and
front grille top cover removed...but not the grille bars themself (although
I did remove the top bar since it is separate. I'll let you know what
happens. Haven't decided if the hood will come off or not, but since I
pulled the tranny separately, maybe it can stay in place?
Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Halton" <safesix@earthlink.net>
To: "Rob J." <robertjacobs@ureach.com>
Cc: <old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>; "_Oletrucks"
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 12:03 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Pulling/Installing 235
> Rob,
>
> You can remove the sheet metal and core support if you like, but it's not
> totally necessary. With an engine hoist and leveler attachment, you can
> "finesse" the engine and trans out (or in) by tilting it and raising it is
> stages. I've done this just by removing the grill and radiator, even with
the
> hood and "doghouse" still in place. This with a Saginaw 4-speed attached,
but
> shifter removed - if your four speed doesn't protrude above the floor
level,
> you should be OK.
>
> As for attachment points, take a couple of old head bolts, or anything
with
> the same thread, and weld on some lifting hooks. You can use them on both
the
> old engine and then to put it back in. Then just put the correct ones in
and
> re-torque once the motor is all happy in its new home.
>
> The above have worked well on several in/out jobs on my '51 GMC and I
can't
> think of any reason a Stovebolt would be any different.
>
> Jack / Winter park FL
> On Mon, 12 Aug 2002 09:35:37 -0700 "Rob J." <robertjacobs@ureach.com>
wrote:
>
> I will be pulling the old 235 and installing the new one shortly. I plan
to
> remove entire front end sheet metal and radiator core support. I have a 4
> speed in this, but with open driveline (no torque tube). Will I be able
to
> pull the entire drive train (engine/tranny) as a combo, or should I remove
the
> tranny first?
>
> I assume, whatever I do to remove, just reverse to install the new engine,
> right?
>
> Finally, what is the best way to hook up to the engine to lift it
> (with/without tranny attached)? I can use head bolts (one front, one
rear) on
> the old engine, but would prefer not to do that on the new one going in.
If
> possible, I'd like to have it completely put together for that
process....is
> this possible?
>
> Rob
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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