Probably helped that I had a fork lift to do the lifting. You are probably
right if I had used a standard cherry picker.
Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Halton" <safesix@earthlink.net>
To: "Rob J." <robertjacobs@ureach.com>
Cc: "_Oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Pulling/Installing 235
> I don't think you'll be able to get the engine raised high enough to get
it
> out over the grille, but I guess it's worth trying, with the hood off and
> trans removed you may be OK. Good luck!
>
> Jack
>
>
> On Tue, 13 Aug 2002 08:42:23 -0700 "Rob J." <robertjacobs@ureach.com>
wrote:
>
> I decided I'm going to try it with just the radiator, radiator support and
> front grille top cover removed...but not the grille bars themself
(although
> I did remove the top bar since it is separate. I'll let you know what
> happens. Haven't decided if the hood will come off or not, but since I
> pulled the tranny separately, maybe it can stay in place?
>
> Rob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jack Halton" <safesix@earthlink.net>
> To: "Rob J." <robertjacobs@ureach.com>
> Cc: <old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>; "_Oletrucks"
> <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 12:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Pulling/Installing 235
>
>
> > Rob,
> >
> > You can remove the sheet metal and core support if you like, but it's
not
> > totally necessary. With an engine hoist and leveler attachment, you can
> > "finesse" the engine and trans out (or in) by tilting it and raising it
is
> > stages. I've done this just by removing the grill and radiator, even
with
> the
> > hood and "doghouse" still in place. This with a Saginaw 4-speed
attached,
> but
> > shifter removed - if your four speed doesn't protrude above the floor
> level,
> > you should be OK.
> >
> > As for attachment points, take a couple of old head bolts, or anything
> with
> > the same thread, and weld on some lifting hooks. You can use them on
both
> the
> > old engine and then to put it back in. Then just put the correct ones in
> and
> > re-torque once the motor is all happy in its new home.
> >
> > The above have worked well on several in/out jobs on my '51 GMC and I
> can't
> > think of any reason a Stovebolt would be any different.
> >
> > Jack / Winter park FL
> > On Mon, 12 Aug 2002 09:35:37 -0700 "Rob J." <robertjacobs@ureach.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > I will be pulling the old 235 and installing the new one shortly. I
plan
> to
> > remove entire front end sheet metal and radiator core support. I have a
4
> > speed in this, but with open driveline (no torque tube). Will I be able
> to
> > pull the entire drive train (engine/tranny) as a combo, or should I
remove
> the
> > tranny first?
> >
> > I assume, whatever I do to remove, just reverse to install the new
engine,
> > right?
> >
> > Finally, what is the best way to hook up to the engine to lift it
> > (with/without tranny attached)? I can use head bolts (one front, one
> rear) on
> > the old engine, but would prefer not to do that on the new one going in.
> If
> > possible, I'd like to have it completely put together for that
> process....is
> > this possible?
> >
> > Rob
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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