Jim,
How big is this slab going to be?
You WILL have cracks, the only thing you can do is control them. There is
a plastic "T" strip that goes into the concrete (it's about 2"tall) and then
the top peals off, leaving a verticle strip in the concrete, a place for the
concrete to crack straight. The rebar will keep the cracks closed, and no
the creeper wheels won't get caught in the cracks. My floor is about 8"
thick, (and cracked) and I think the rebar was spaced about every 2" in a
24x48 building. Mine also does not have any expansion joints at all, but the
concrete stem wall ,and the concrete floor should expand and contract about
the same for temp and moisture. (I think).
Sheldon Schmidt
'56 1/2 NAPCO
----- Original Message -----
From: "New Mexico Jim" <ADvent@thuntek.net>
Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 4:24 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] garage floor slab
Today, some friends and I filled in the area and tamped it down. I am now
ready
to hose it down and then lay some Visqueen and rebar. My question is: on
what
centers should I run my rebar? I was thinking about 12" on center and 2
"above
the dirt and 6" of 3,500 pound concrete. I don't want any cracks and I hate
it
when a creeper gets caught in them. Should I use that black tar stuff
inpregnaded fiberboard that costs about 5 bucks a 4X8 sheet and cut in 6"
strips. Then attach it to the inside edge of the stem wall as an expansion
join
since there will be no expansion joints elswhere in the slab? If I'm not
making
myself clear, the place between the end of the slab and where it meets the
stem
wall.
Jim
does anyone know how to add a signiture file in Netscape 4.7? I click on
the
edit sig file and it brings up an adress book. thx
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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