I used 3500# concrete for a floor in my barn and did not use rebar.
Instead, the concrete mix had fiberglass mixed in with it - I think it cost
about $5/yard more, but they said the slab shouldn't crack. Its been 2
years now and my Farmall M tractor (>5000 lbs) has been in and out and
parked there with no problems. Something to check out. I think if you pour
smaller sections at a time that might minimize cracking also - although
small stress cracks, as you know, are sometimes inevitable - so far I have
none.
Bob Welch
'56 Cameo
'55 Belair
Bartlesville, OK
----- Original Message -----
From: "New Mexico Jim" <ADvent@thuntek.net>
Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 6:24 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] garage floor slab
>
> Today, some friends and I filled in the area and tamped it down. I am now
ready
> to hose it down and then lay some Visqueen and rebar. My question is: on
what
> centers should I run my rebar? I was thinking about 12" on center and 2
"above
> the dirt and 6" of 3,500 pound concrete. I don't want any cracks and I
hate it
> when a creeper gets caught in them. Should I use that black tar stuff
> inpregnaded fiberboard that costs about 5 bucks a 4X8 sheet and cut in 6"
> strips. Then attach it to the inside edge of the stem wall as an expansion
join
> since there will be no expansion joints elswhere in the slab? If I'm not
making
> myself clear, the place between the end of the slab and where it meets the
stem
> wall.
> Jim
> does anyone know how to add a signiture file in Netscape 4.7? I click on
the
> edit sig file and it brings up an adress book. thx
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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