Jim,
You can call me anytime, but 10 am to 1 pm today is best for me.
One note: we build houses well. (check us out at www.rbi-austin.com) But
it does not freeze hard in Austin so I am not an expert on frost heave
prevention. I do know that the perimeter footings need to be below the
frost line. 10 mil visqueen is always a good idea. Can you place 2" of
course sand under the slab?
Hope to hear from you soon.
Michael Lubitz
Renaissance Builders
(512) 306-1681
Michael Lubitz
1946 Chevy 3/4 ton stock
1948 Chevrolet 3100, soon to be deluxe
Austin, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "New Mexico Jim" <ADvent@thuntek.net>
To: "Michael Lubitz" <mlrba@texas.net>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 1:25 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] garage floor slab
> Thanks for the input, Mike. Can I call you Monday? And what would be a
good time
> for you? Anytime is good for me. I have caliche and some limestone rocks
from
> around my property along with mountain soil, if you can call it soil. I
plan on
> using Visqueen for a vapor barrier under the slab to make it more pleasant
to
> lay on in the winter.
> jim
>
> Michael Lubitz wrote:
>
> > Jim,
> >
> > Use #3 or #4 rebar at 12" on center. (#3 is 3/8" diameter and #4 is 4/8
or
> > 1/2" diameter, clever, eh?) Center the rebar in the thickness of the 4"
> > slab. Use stones or pieces of brick or similar to keep the rebar up
during
> > the pour.
> >
> > When you filled in, did you use any special soil? (road base or
decomposed
> > limestone or decomposed granite or crushed granite or ??) If not, go to
a
> > 5" slab. If your soil is real bad (expansive - when it dries after
being
> > wet does it crack in 1/2" wide cracks everywhere?), you may need to use
a
> > double mat of the #3's or 4's and a 6" slab.
> >
> > The joints you are thinking of with asphalt impregnated felt are not
> > expansion joints, but control joints and there should be no need for
them
> > anywhere in your slab. The fibremesh additive is really cut
polypropylene
> > (sp?) rope and will not prevent structural cracks - nothing will. The
poly
> > will keep very small cracks from opening but most definitely is not a
> > substitute for rebar which will keep the slab from separating at the
> > inevitable cracks. The rebar will allow the crawler to glide over the
> > cracks as they will stay at the same level.
> >
> > When you do pour, hope for a cloudy day and no matter keep the slab
moist
> > after it cures for about 4 hours. Finish the concrete with a steel
trowel
> > also as it will tend to slow the moisture loss. The theory is that the
> > slower the cure, the more evenly the concrete adjusts to its contraction
as
> > is cures.
> >
> > Call me is you have further questions.
> >
> > Michael Lubitz
> > Renaissance Builders
> > (512) 306-1681
> >
> > Michael Lubitz
> > 1946 Chevy 3/4 ton stock
> > 1948 Chevrolet 3100, soon to be deluxe
> > Austin, Texas
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "New Mexico Jim" <ADvent@thuntek.net>
> > Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 6:24 PM
> > Subject: [oletrucks] garage floor slab
> >
> > >
> > > Today, some friends and I filled in the area and tamped it down. I am
now
> > ready
> > > to hose it down and then lay some Visqueen and rebar. My question is:
on
> > what
> > > centers should I run my rebar? I was thinking about 12" on center and
2
> > "above
> > > the dirt and 6" of 3,500 pound concrete. I don't want any cracks and I
> > hate it
> > > when a creeper gets caught in them. Should I use that black tar stuff
> > > inpregnaded fiberboard that costs about 5 bucks a 4X8 sheet and cut in
6"
> > > strips. Then attach it to the inside edge of the stem wall as an
expansion
> > join
> > > since there will be no expansion joints elswhere in the slab? If I'm
not
> > making
> > > myself clear, the place between the end of the slab and where it meets
the
> > stem
> > > wall.
> > > Jim
> > > does anyone know how to add a signiture file in Netscape 4.7? I click
on
> > the
> > > edit sig file and it brings up an adress book. thx
> > >
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
> > >
>
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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