I find that there is a lot of room for manual adjustment in the top seal
arrangement. After erecting the top, it pays to get fussy poking and pulling
that chubby "roll" so as to eliminate any gaps where you can see daylight.
On a related note, the studs on my car seem to be awfully long -- even with
the lift-the-dot fasteners completely "locked", they can be shoved down
another quarter-inch onto the posts; but there is nothing to keep them in
this position -- they naturally want to pull up to the top of the posts,
where the retaining groove is. This understandably leads to a
less-than-perfect seal. If you have a similar situation, I think you can get
shorter studs. I have never bothered because the soft top is merely an
emergency expedient for me -- if the weather is sufficiently bad, I mount
the hard top.
on 10/21/03 4:45 PM, David Councill at dcouncil@imt.net wrote:
> It is far enough from the seal not to interfere directly. But it is raised
> enough so although I can seal with the lift-the-dot studs, the top does not
> seal flush with the body, leaving a small gap right behind where the seat
> belt mount is. It maybe the seatbelt part, maybe its normal, hard to say
> since I have no real reference point. Thats why I ask. Experience tells me
> that when its below zero out, I want the tightest seal possible.
>
> David
>
> At 04:05 PM 10/21/2003 -0700, Max Heim wrote:
>> Looking at page 42 in Clausager, it would seem that the original mounting
>> point would be far enough inboard of the top seal not to interfere (judging
>> from the line of lift-the-dot studs). Are you sure you have the seat belts
>> mounted to the correct location?
>
>
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
|