It could be more simple: my '71 BGT had a similar problem and I found one of
the brushes could not move well causing poor contact to the rotor.
Cleaning this all solved the issue...
Cheers,
Hans
'71 BGT
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----- Original Message -----
From: "David Councill" <dcouncil@imt.net>
To: "William T Snyder" <wtsnyder@juno.com>; <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2003 5:19 AM
Subject: Re: Ignition Light
> I would suspect the alternator. My former 71BGT showed similar symptoms,
> assuming a consistent glow, when the diode failed (I replaced the
> alternator back then, 20+ years ago). I have also had the light come on
> when the brushes were worn but the ignition light tended to flicker when
> the brushes wear to the point they needed replaced.
>
> You should be able to remove the alternator and have it tested at an auto
> supply parts store.
>
> Or it can be tested with a multitester easy enough. I've not had to
resort
> to this - but the output lead (one of the browns, large connector) should
> show about 14 volts and 34 amps at 3000-3500 rpms. But just looking at my
> Moss catalog, it shows a nice troubleshooting diagram for the alternator.
> And if my original theory is correct about the diode, you can use the
> instructions to isolate the correct rectifier and replace it.
>
> So my advice would be to get the Moss catalog and your multimeter, follow
> the guide, and for a little over $20 for the correct rectifier and maybe
an
> hour or two of your time, you will have a working alternator and the pride
> of knowing that you fixed the problem.
>
> On the second question, I hope you get an answer. Because I have just
> rebuilt my 72B, and I have the wires connected from the reverse switch
> on the tranny, but I'm not sure where they plug into on my new wiring
> harness. Although I'll eventually figure it out. Its still down the list a
> ways on things I still need to do.
>
> David Councill
> 67 BGT
> 72 B
>
> At 09:02 PM 8/1/2003 -0400, William T Snyder wrote:
> >Hello List,
> >Today, I got my 72 BGT back from the tranny shop where they exchanged
> >gearboxes for me (bartered for services). On the drive home, the ignition
> >light began glowing red. I was in bright sunlight when I cranked up
> >initially and cannot swear that the light was not on faintly from the get
> >go. At higher RPM's the light was dim, lower RPM's brighter. As I neared
> >home and the battery apparently weakened, the light became gradually
> >brighter, and accessories began to fade (CD player). When home, I first
> >checked the connections to the alternator. The smaller Brown/Yellow wire
> >may have been loose. I tightened it. I checked the brown connections to
> >the fuse block......apparently OK. I opened the battery compartment and
> >the terminals were tight and clean. I crawled underneath to check the
> >solenoid connections. The Brown/White connection was good; one large
> >Brown was connected. Another large brown, apparently branching from the
> >first was a dead end and taped off (Any ideas where it went originally?).
> >
> >With the assistance of a battery charger, I started the engine again. The
> >ignition light still glows faintly.
> >Can anyone give me any ideas on where to go next? Is there any way to
> >check the alternator output at home using a multitester? Does the glowing
> >ignition light mean that the battery is not being charged? Or does it
> >mean that a short is discharging the battery? I am using a single 12V
> >battery and will be giving it a slow charge overnight.
> >
> >Second question: While swapping trannies, I had the shop run me some
> >wires from the reverse switch up to the passenger side of the firewall.
> >My backup lights have never been hooked up since I have owned the car.
> >Where do I look for connections to hook up the backup lights in the loom?
> >
> >Any advice or input is appreciated.
> >Bill Snyder
> >66 B
> >72 BGT
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