Firstly, don't bother with an ammeter, they are more trouble than they are
worth especially with voltmeters available.
The ammeter has to be inserted into the connection to the battery such that
everything except the cranking current passes through it. This requires
additional connections at the solenoid and the back of the ammeter which can
go high-resistance, and heavy gauge cables that nonetheless will still
introduce a voltdrop. And at the end of the day, it is not easy to see
whether the battery is just charging or just discharging.
A voltmeter, OTOH, just requires a connection to a green (fused ignition,
ideally, or via its own in-line fuse to a white unfused ignition) and
ground, both of which are already behind the dash, using standard gauge
wire. I say 'standard gauge', but the instrument may come with its own
very thin wires. Personally I don't like these as they are not very strong
mechanically and the insulation is thinner as well as the conductor.
Finally, as John Twist has said: "Except in the RAREST of circumstances, the
ignition warning light indicates any problem with the charging. AMMETERS
properly connected into alternator circuits provide at least two more
connections which can corrode and cause the alternator to fail. Buy some
driving gloves instead."
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: "William T Snyder" <wtsnyder@juno.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2003 10:05 PM
Subject: Ignition Light
> Next, would anyone be willing to give a simple explanation on how to hook
> up an ammeter and a voltmeter on a later than 1970 car? I can't stand not
> knowing the status of my battery and charging system.
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|