moss also recomends replacing the rear main seal while you are in there.
James Nazarian
'71 B roadster
'74 BGT with no sills
'63 Buick 215 eyeing another rolling chassis
On Wed, 20 Oct 1999 REwald9535@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/19/99 9:09:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> microdoc@apk.net writes:
>
> > I think your success with the graphite throwout bearing dictates that you
> > stick
> > with them. By the way, how many clutches are you talking about here at 75k
> > apiece?
> Between my own car and friends cars 4 or 5.
> Before I learned how to A) drive a clutch and B) how to properly replace a
> clutch My Mileage Did Vary (MMDV)
> Tips on replacing a clutch
> Replace all three pieces (disc, pressure plate and T/O)
> Use new not rebuilt.
> Always replace the pilot bushing
> Always have the flywheel turned.
> Buy a clutch alignment tool
> Make sure that all the surfaces are CLEAN before assembly, use brake clean to
> remove any greasy fingerprints.
> Tighten the pressure plate in stages, if you crank it down unevenly you can
> give yourself problems. I have always put the pressure plate up start all
> the bolts finger tight and then tighten each 1/2 turn and work my way around.
> Don't get the disc in backward
> Don't overtorque the clutch cover bolts. (they break!)
> If you doubts about the arm and pivot for the T/O change it out now rather
> then having to pull the engine later.
> Plus see Barneys excellent advice on this subject in a thread about two
> weeks ago called driving on a slipping clutch.
>
> I won't presume to teach this group how to drive. :-)
> Rick
>
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