Bob,
I went through the work of filling and milling all the holes to fit the
new clevis pins that I got from Moss. They were hardened pins, by the
way, much harder metal than the originals. There was still some slack
until I dropped the sump and swapped the fulcrum pins there, after which
the linkage has been pretty tight.
Which is better? Good question. MG switched to the rods for reasons we
are unlikely to discover. Maybe a bent rod was less expensive to produce
than a cable.
There is a shop here in CT whose proprietor thinks the cable better and
who installs cables in rod&lever cars that come to him for this problem.
He believes that there are fewer points for wear to loosen the linkage. I
don't see what wear points are eliminated.
In your case, since the cable appears to have been OEM, I'd go with the
cable. You have the bracket to confirm its installation. My car, TDC
21934 was, according to Chip Old's listings in Points of Originality and
theService Parts List, fitted with the cable (change point being car
#22251). Chip mentioned, and the Service Parts list also mentions, part
#500596, stop-clutch pedal, but no illustration # is given. I don't know
what it looks like nor where it would be located in the linkage. Maybe
it's not there. Can you describe it?
Bob
, should have the cable. It came new from the dealer with the rods&pivot
though
On Mon, 1 May 2000 23:49:37 EDT BobMGT@aol.com writes:
> The clutch lever linkage on my TD is loose as a goose. The bush and
> clevis
> pin holes are worn out. I could get a new bush and have the holes
> welded and
> re-drilled. But it looks like it would be easier to install the
> clutch cable.
> My TD is an early model that should have the cable anyway (The
> bracket is
> still on the oil pan.). Which mechanism is best, the cable or the
> lever?
>
> Bob Donahue (Still stuck in the '50s)
> EMAIL - BOBMGT@AOL.COM
> 52 MGTD - under DIY restoration NEMGTR #11470
> 71 MGB - AMGBA #96-12029, NAMGBR #7-3336
|