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Re: [Healeys] Counterfeit Numbers

To: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Counterfeit Numbers
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2022 09:31:39 -0700
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAGfzsZfD6khyC5dFKDSQwT5Y5eQhQSnRb-Q_z-i8J1yTuvx5Rw@mail.gmail.com>
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Rick,

I posted about this exact subject in comment on the first 100M made that
was for sale recently on BaT.

If one was willing to invest several thousands of dollars on a new set of
spot on body stamps, you'd be off to a good start. Several of us researched
having a set of body number stamps made up, but we decided the cost $5K+
wasn't worth the effort... Duh, we weren't making counterfeit Ms! However
if you were, it might be worth the effort and expense.

Just recently, a person in Washington state was selling ALL of the items
needed for an M, e..g., original louvered bonnet, original AUC 6040 AA or X
carburetors and manifolds, original numbered and dated distributor, etc...

So with the stamps, the aforementioned parts, then find a clapped out BN2
cheap.  Then find Factory 100M numbers that are currently not in use
(scrapped years ago) and request a heritage certificate. Rebuild the car,
have it judged Concours and get a Bill Meade certificate.

Renumber the boot, bonnet and splash apron. Weld in the old numbers on the
cockpit trim, grind and sand smooth, and  renumber. EASIER said than done,
the trim warps like nobody's business under welding heat, plus you'll need
to use old trim aluminum as a welding rod so the color matches and you
can't see a ghosting of the old numbers.To me this is the hardest part, and
NOT cheap.

Now this won't be cheap as the number stamps, parts and welding would cost
north of $20K+. However, given Factory 100M premiums, it's possibly
worth the effort. Folks have worked harder to scam for less. Just my 2
cents.

-Curt



On Tue, Aug 16, 2022 at 8:41 AM HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com> wrote:

> In watching various auctions of high-end Healeys, particularly Ms, I read
> opinions that it would be very difficult to counterfeit all the identifying
> numbers on a Healey. My question for the better informed would it really be
> that difficult to get dies made up to punch realistic numbers, grind off
> the old numbers on the trim pieces and body panels and make up some ID
> plates?  If cars are worth over $150k, I would think it would be a
> relatively small investment in tooling and with all the scanning equipment
> we have now, I can't see it being that difficult.
>
> Don't worry, not asking for a friend.
>
> Rick Neville
> _______________________________________________
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Rick,<div><br></div><div>I posted about this exact subject=
 in comment on the first 100M made that was for sale recently on BaT.</div>=
<div><br></div><div>If one was willing to invest several=C2=A0thousands=C2=
=A0of dollars on a new set of spot on body stamps, you&#39;d be off to a go=
od start. Several of us researched having a set of body number stamps made =
up, but we decided the cost $5K+ wasn&#39;t worth the effort... Duh, we wer=
en&#39;t making counterfeit=C2=A0Ms! However if you were, it might be worth=
 the effort and expense.</div><div><br></div><div>Just recently, a person i=
n Washington state was selling ALL of the items needed for an M, e..g., ori=
ginal louvered bonnet, original AUC 6040 AA or X carburetors and manifolds,=
 original numbered and dated distributor, etc...=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div><br>=
</div><div>So with the stamps, the aforementioned=C2=A0parts, then find a c=
lapped out BN2 cheap.=C2=A0 Then find Factory 100M numbers that are=C2=A0cu=
rrently=C2=A0not in use (scrapped years ago) and request a heritage certifi=
cate. Rebuild the car, have it judged Concours and=C2=A0get a Bill Meade ce=
rtificate.</div><div><br></div><div>Renumber the boot, bonnet and splash ap=
ron. Weld in the old numbers on the cockpit trim, grind and sand smooth, an=
d=C2=A0 renumber. EASIER said than done, the trim warps like nobody&#39;s b=
usiness under welding heat, plus you&#39;ll need to use old trim aluminum a=
s a welding rod so the color matches and you can&#39;t see a ghosting of th=
e old numbers.To me this is the hardest part, and NOT cheap.</div><div><br>=
</div><div>Now this won&#39;t be cheap as the number stamps,=C2=A0parts and=
 welding would cost north of $20K+. However, given Factory 100M premiums, i=
t&#39;s possibly worth=C2=A0the=C2=A0effort. Folks have worked harder to sc=
am for less. Just my 2 cents.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>-Curt</div><di=
v><br></div><div><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D=
"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Aug 16, 2022 at 8:41 AM HealeyRick &lt;<=
a href=3D"mailto:healeyrik@gmail.com";>healeyrik@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br=
></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;=
border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">I=
n watching various auctions of high-end Healeys, particularly Ms, I read op=
inions that it would be very difficult to counterfeit all the identifying n=
umbers on a Healey. My question for the better informed would it really be =
that difficult to get dies made up to punch realistic numbers, grind off th=
e old numbers on the trim pieces and body panels and make up some ID plates=
?=C2=A0 If cars are worth over $150k, I would think it would be a relativel=
y small investment in tooling and with all the scanning equipment we have n=
ow, I can&#39;t see it being that difficult.<div><br></div><div>Don&#39;t w=
orry, not asking for a friend.</div><div><br></div><div>Rick Neville</div><=
/div>
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