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Never used any, in this car anyway (for emergencies only, IMO). It was
solder.
On 3/29/2022 7:42 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Bob -
>
> One thing it might be is stop leak. Stop leak can plug up a system if
> there's air in there somewhere, and stop leak will form clumps if you
> don't drive the car every day. Using stop leak is fine, but you have
> to flush the system out thoroughly after the stop leak has plugged the
> holes in your system.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
> On Wed, Mar 30, 2022 at 10:10 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> It's been years, and my memory is (always) suspect, but I believe
> I put a RS in a pan of boiling water (with a frog, of course). The
> conical top of the RS goes up in the thermostat housing, so I
> think the moving part can only go down. IIRC, the sleeve only
> moved a quarter-inch or so and I thought at the time it would only
> cover maybe half of the bypass port.
>
> I mostly came to the conclusion Michael did: Covering the port or
> not makes no measurable difference; it's certainly not a cure for
> overheating Healeys.
>
> On another note; I drained my BJ8 to install another heater valve
> and block valve and, when filling noticed some crud blocking a
> couple tubes. It was hard to extract, but when I did it appeared
> to be solder that had come off from somewher (by the shape
> probably from around a tube). Rad's not leaking, but I'm not a
> happy camper; this was an 'uprated' core installed less than 6 or
> 7 years ago.
>
>
> On 3/29/2022 7:00 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>> Hi Bob -
>>
>> the Robertshaw thermostats are nicely made, but they open the
>> wrong way around... let me do some measurements as I am dealing
>> with the cooling on my BJ8 now. I have a robert shaw... as well
>> as another sleeved thermostat as well as the bellows.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> On Wed, Mar 30, 2022 at 9:54 AM Bob Spidell
>> <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> Years ago, someone--might have been BCS, but I'm not
>> sure--was selling a Robertshaw thermostat with a brass sleeve
>> soldered to it (Robertshaw thermostats have a center portion
>> that moves up and down). The one I bought was 160deg; I
>> desoldered the sleeve and soldered it to a 180deg Robertshaw.
>> I bought one of the original, bellows-type from
>> Kees--whatever happened to him?--but never installed it;
>> heard they were the 'fail closed' type, which could turn a
>> minor failure into a catastrophe (still have it around
>> somewhere).
>>
>>
>> https://flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/products/robertshaw-330-160-degree-thermostat
>>
>>
>> On 3/29/2022 6:35 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>>> Harold -
>>>
>>> Thank you, now I understand how the whole thing is supposed
>>> to work. The sleeve works to cut off the bypass so that hot
>>> water is not recycled into the system after it warms up.
>>> FWIW, this only applies to the 6 cyl, the 4 cyl doesn't have
>>> any sort of bypass.
>>>
>>> Yes, I think it would be great if you could share with us
>>> which thermostat to purchase and how to modify it.
>>>
>>> Best,
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>> On Wed, Mar 30, 2022 at 1:28 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys
>>> <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> The coolant bypass plays an important but problematic
>>> role in the Healeyâ??s cooling system. When the thermostat
>>> is closed coolant returns to the water pump via the
>>> bypass. See the red circle on the attached picture. The
>>> bypass is important for three reasons: its allows the
>>> coolant in the block to continue to circulate and come
>>> to a uniform temperature before the thermostat opens, it
>>> prevents hot spots that could develop from stagnant
>>> coolant and it prevents the water pump from dead heading.
>>>
>>> The problematic part is in the original design the
>>> bypass was closed by a sleeve on the bellows type
>>> thermostat when the thermostat opened. The original
>>> Bellows type thermostat used a volatile liquid and were
>>> not reliable and were not suitable for the 7 psi cooling
>>> system pressure. Wax type thermostats are much more
>>> reliable but they do not have a sleeve to close off the
>>> bypass. There may be some expensive wax type replicas of
>>> the original bellows type.
>>>
>>> After looking at many options the best option for a
>>> reasonably priced wax type thermostat with a sleeve to
>>> close off the bay pass is the modified Land Rover Series
>>> ll thermostat. If anyone would like to know about
>>> modifying the Landver thermostat let me know. It can be
>>> easily done.
>>>
>>> Harold
>>>
>>> *From: *Michael Salter via Healeys
>>> *Sent: *Tuesday, March 29, 2022 9:17 AM
>>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Coolant bypass port in the head
>>> - 6-cyl
>>>
>>> The coolant travels from the bottom of the radiator to
>>> the water pump into the block then from the block into
>>> the head then through the thermostat to the top of the
>>> radiator.
>>>
>>> M
>>>
>>> On Tue., Mar. 29, 2022, 11:57 a.m. Elton S,
>>> <eps2660@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> As a related question, what is the direction of flow
>>> through the radiator - up from the bottom or down
>>> from the top?
>>>
>>> Elton
>>>
>>> BJ7
>>>
>>> On Tue, Mar 29, 2022 at 11:44 AM Michael Salter
>>> <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> As Gary points out, and far as I have been able
>>> to figure out, the bypass passage is open when
>>> the engine is cold, the idea being that by
>>> "short circuiting" the radiator the coolant in
>>> the heater and bypass passage will warm up more
>>> quickly and the heater will produce heat more
>>> quickly.
>>>
>>> We had a slew of the "shrouded " type
>>> thermostats that I bought when Smiths Canada
>>> closed down. The part number was 43570/28 and we
>>> used to sell them to customers who reported
>>> overheating problems.
>>>
>>> I stopped promoting them as a potential solution
>>> to overheating issues after being taken to task
>>> by a customer who did an extensive study of the
>>> issue and proved, at least to my satisfaction,Â
>>> that they improved cooling not one iota.
>>>
>>> M
>>>
>>> On Tue., Mar. 29, 2022, 10:47 a.m. Alan
>>> Seigrist, <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I don't know if this has ever been answered
>>> before, but where does the little bypass
>>> port begin?
>>>
>>> What parts of the head does that bypass come
>>> in contact with?
>>>
>>> When do you want to cover the port with a
>>> sleeve (when coolant is hot or cold?)
>>>
>>> I ask because the old bellows style
>>> thermostat will cover the bypass port when
>>> the thermostat opens
>>>
>>> then I have another wax thermostat and the
>>> sleeve actually cover the bypass when it is
>>> cold, and doesn't cover it when the
>>> thermostat opens.... so it works exact
>>> opposite to the old bellows style thermostat.
>>>
>>> confused....
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive:
>>> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>>
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>>>
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>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
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>>>
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>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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>
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Never used any, in this car anyway (for emergencies only, IMO). It
was solder.<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/29/2022 7:42 PM, Alan Seigrist
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAFBXTk+rax_Q821v+cxBFsGgzFyxhB=Hx4t8pXC1H4N7mkTkAw@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">Bob -
<div><br>
</div>
<div>One thing it might be is stop leak. Stop leak can plug up
a system if there's air in there somewhere, and stop leak will
form clumps if you don't drive the car every day. Using stop
leak is fine, but you have to flush the system out thoroughly
after the stop leak has plugged the holes in your system.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Best,</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Alan</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Mar 30, 2022 at 10:10
AM Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div> It's been years, and my memory is (always) suspect, but
I believe I put a RS in a pan of boiling water (with a frog,
of course). The conical top of the RS goes up in the
thermostat housing, so I think the moving part can only go
down. IIRC, the sleeve only moved a quarter-inch or so and I
thought at the time it would only cover maybe half of the
bypass port.<br>
<br>
I mostly came to the conclusion Michael did: Covering the
port or not makes no measurable difference; it's certainly
not a cure for overheating Healeys.<br>
<br>
On another note; I drained my BJ8 to install another heater
valve and block valve and, when filling noticed some crud
blocking a couple tubes. It was hard to extract, but when I
did it appeared to be solder that had come off from somewher
(by the shape probably from around a tube). Rad's not
leaking, but I'm not a happy camper; this was an 'uprated'
core installed less than 6 or 7 years ago.<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 3/29/2022 7:00 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">Hi Bob -
<div><br>
</div>
<div>the Robertshaw thermostats are nicely made, but
they open the wrong way around... let me do some
measurements as I am dealing with the cooling on my
BJ8 now. I have a robert shaw... as well as another
sleeved thermostat as well as the bellows.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Best,</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Alan</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Mar 30, 2022
at 9:54 AM Bob Spidell <<a
href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px
0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div> Years ago, someone--might have been BCS, but I'm
not sure--was selling a Robertshaw thermostat with a
brass sleeve soldered to it (Robertshaw thermostats
have a center portion that moves up and down). The
one I bought was 160deg; I desoldered the sleeve and
soldered it to a 180deg Robertshaw. I bought one of
the original, bellows-type from Kees--whatever
happened to him?--but never installed it; heard they
were the 'fail closed' type, which could turn a
minor failure into a catastrophe (still have it
around somewhere).<br>
<br>
<a
href="https://flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/products/robertshaw-330-160-degree-thermostat";
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">https://flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/products/robertshaw-330-160-degree-thermostat</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 3/29/2022 6:35 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">Harold -
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thank you, now I understand how the whole
thing is supposed to work. The sleeve works
to cut off the bypass so that hot water is not
recycled into the system after it warms up.Â
FWIW, this only applies to the 6 cyl, the 4
cyl doesn't have any sort of bypass.<br>
<br>
Yes, I think it would be great if you could
share with us which thermostat to purchase and
how to modify it.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Best,</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Alan</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Mar
30, 2022 at 1:28 AM Harold Manifold via
Healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote"
style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div lang="EN-US">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The coolant bypass
plays an important but problematic role
in the Healeyâ??s cooling system. When the
thermostat is closed coolant returns to
the water pump via the bypass. See the
red circle on the attached picture. The
bypass is important for three reasons:
its allows the coolant in the block to
continue to circulate and come to a
uniform temperature before the
thermostat opens, it prevents hot spots
that could develop from stagnant coolant
and it prevents the water pump from dead
heading.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The problematic part
is in the original design the bypass was
closed by a sleeve on the bellows type
thermostat when the thermostat opened.
The original Bellows type thermostat
used a volatile liquid and were not
reliable and were not suitable for the 7
psi cooling system pressure. Wax type
thermostats are much more reliable but
they do not have a sleeve to close off
the bypass. There may be some expensive
wax type replicas of the original
bellows type.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">After looking at many
options the best option for a reasonably
priced wax type thermostat with a sleeve
to close off the bay pass is the
modified Land Rover Series ll
thermostat. If anyone would like to know
about modifying the Landver thermostat
let me know. It can be easily done.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Harold</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div
style="border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:none;border-top:1pt
solid rgb(225,225,225);padding:3pt 0in
0in">
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="border:none;padding:0in"><b>From:
</b><a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">Michael
Salter via Healeys</a><br>
<b>Sent: </b>Tuesday, March 29, 2022
9:17 AM<br>
<b>To: </b><a
href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">Healey list</a><br>
<b>Subject: </b>Re: [Healeys] Coolant
bypass port in the head - 6-cyl</p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The coolant travels
from the bottom of the radiator to the
water pump into the block then from
the block into the head then through
the thermostat to the top of the
radiator.</p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">M</p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Tue., Mar. 29,
2022, 11:57 a.m. Elton S, <<a
href="mailto:eps2660@gmail.com";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">eps2660@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:</p>
</div>
<blockquote
style="border-top:none;border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:1pt
solid rgb(204,204,204);padding:0in 0in
0in
6pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">As a related
question, what is the direction of
flow through the radiator - up
from the bottom or down from the
top?</p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Elton  </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">BJ7</p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Tue, Mar
29, 2022 at 11:44 AM Michael
Salter <<a
href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:</p>
</div>
<blockquote
style="border-top:none;border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:1pt
solid rgb(204,204,204);padding:0in
0in 0in
6pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">As Gary
points out, and far as I have
been able to figure out, the
bypass passage is open when
the engine is cold, the idea
being that by "short
circuiting" the radiator the
coolant in the heater and
bypass passage will warm up
more quickly and the heater
will produce heat more
quickly. </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">We had a
slew of the "shrouded " type
thermostats that I bought
when Smiths Canada closed
down. The part number was
43570/28 and we used to sell
them to customers who
reported overheating
problems. </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">I stopped
promoting them as a
potential solution to
overheating issues after
being taken to task by a
customer who did an
extensive study of the issue
and proved, at least to my
satisfaction, that they
improved cooling not one
iota.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">M</p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Tue.,
Mar. 29, 2022, 10:47 a.m.
Alan Seigrist, <<a
href="mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">healey.nut@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:</p>
</div>
<blockquote
style="border-top:none;border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:1pt
solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding:0in
0in 0in
6pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">I don't
know if this has ever been
answered before, but where
does the little bypass
port begin?  </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">What
parts of the head does
that bypass come in
contact with? <br>
<br>
When do you want to
cover the port with a
sleeve (when coolant is
hot or cold?)</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">I ask
because the old bellows
style thermostat will
cover the bypass port
when the thermostat
opens<br>
<br>
then I have another wax
thermostat and the
sleeve actually cover
the bypass when it is
cold, and doesn't cover
it when the thermostat
opens.... so it works
exact opposite to the
old bellows style
thermostat.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
<div>
<p
class="MsoNormal">confused....<br>
<br>
Cheers,</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Alan</p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="margin-bottom:12pt">_______________________________________________<br>
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</blockquote>
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</blockquote>
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