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It's been years, and my memory is (always) suspect, but I believe I put
a RS in a pan of boiling water (with a frog, of course). The conical top
of the RS goes up in the thermostat housing, so I think the moving part
can only go down. IIRC, the sleeve only moved a quarter-inch or so and I
thought at the time it would only cover maybe half of the bypass port.
I mostly came to the conclusion Michael did: Covering the port or not
makes no measurable difference; it's certainly not a cure for
overheating Healeys.
On another note; I drained my BJ8 to install another heater valve and
block valve and, when filling noticed some crud blocking a couple tubes.
It was hard to extract, but when I did it appeared to be solder that had
come off from somewher (by the shape probably from around a tube). Rad's
not leaking, but I'm not a happy camper; this was an 'uprated' core
installed less than 6 or 7 years ago.
On 3/29/2022 7:00 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Hi Bob -
>
> the Robertshaw thermostats are nicely made, but they open the wrong
> way around... let me do some measurements as I am dealing with the
> cooling on my BJ8 now. I have a robert shaw... as well as another
> sleeved thermostat as well as the bellows.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
> On Wed, Mar 30, 2022 at 9:54 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Years ago, someone--might have been BCS, but I'm not sure--was
> selling a Robertshaw thermostat with a brass sleeve soldered to it
> (Robertshaw thermostats have a center portion that moves up and
> down). The one I bought was 160deg; I desoldered the sleeve and
> soldered it to a 180deg Robertshaw. I bought one of the original,
> bellows-type from Kees--whatever happened to him?--but never
> installed it; heard they were the 'fail closed' type, which could
> turn a minor failure into a catastrophe (still have it around
> somewhere).
>
>
> https://flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/products/robertshaw-330-160-degree-thermostat
>
>
> On 3/29/2022 6:35 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>> Harold -
>>
>> Thank you, now I understand how the whole thing is supposed to
>> work. The sleeve works to cut off the bypass so that hot water
>> is not recycled into the system after it warms up. FWIW, this
>> only applies to the 6 cyl, the 4 cyl doesn't have any sort of bypass.
>>
>> Yes, I think it would be great if you could share with us which
>> thermostat to purchase and how to modify it.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> On Wed, Mar 30, 2022 at 1:28 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys
>> <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> The coolant bypass plays an important but problematic role in
>> the Healeyâ??s cooling system. When the thermostat is closed
>> coolant returns to the water pump via the bypass. See the red
>> circle on the attached picture. The bypass is important for
>> three reasons: its allows the coolant in the block to
>> continue to circulate and come to a uniform temperature
>> before the thermostat opens, it prevents hot spots that could
>> develop from stagnant coolant and it prevents the water pump
>> from dead heading.
>>
>> The problematic part is in the original design the bypass was
>> closed by a sleeve on the bellows type thermostat when the
>> thermostat opened. The original Bellows type thermostat used
>> a volatile liquid and were not reliable and were not suitable
>> for the 7 psi cooling system pressure. Wax type thermostats
>> are much more reliable but they do not have a sleeve to close
>> off the bypass. There may be some expensive wax type replicas
>> of the original bellows type.
>>
>> After looking at many options the best option for a
>> reasonably priced wax type thermostat with a sleeve to close
>> off the bay pass is the modified Land Rover Series ll
>> thermostat. If anyone would like to know about modifying the
>> Landver thermostat let me know. It can be easily done.
>>
>> Harold
>>
>> *From: *Michael Salter via Healeys
>> *Sent: *Tuesday, March 29, 2022 9:17 AM
>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Coolant bypass port in the head - 6-cyl
>>
>> The coolant travels from the bottom of the radiator to the
>> water pump into the block then from the block into the head
>> then through the thermostat to the top of the radiator.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Tue., Mar. 29, 2022, 11:57 a.m. Elton S,
>> <eps2660@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> As a related question, what is the direction of flow
>> through the radiator - up from the bottom or down from
>> the top?
>>
>> Elton
>>
>> BJ7
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 29, 2022 at 11:44 AM Michael Salter
>> <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> As Gary points out, and far as I have been able to
>> figure out, the bypass passage is open when the
>> engine is cold, the idea being that by "short
>> circuiting" the radiator the coolant in the heater
>> and bypass passage will warm up more quickly and the
>> heater will produce heat more quickly.
>>
>> We had a slew of the "shrouded " type thermostats
>> that I bought when Smiths Canada closed down. The
>> part number was 43570/28 and we used to sell them to
>> customers who reported overheating problems.
>>
>> I stopped promoting them as a potential solution to
>> overheating issues after being taken to task by a
>> customer who did an extensive study of the issue and
>> proved, at least to my satisfaction, that they
>> improved cooling not one iota.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Tue., Mar. 29, 2022, 10:47 a.m. Alan Seigrist,
>> <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> I don't know if this has ever been answered
>> before, but where does the little bypass port begin?
>>
>> What parts of the head does that bypass come in
>> contact with?
>>
>> When do you want to cover the port with a sleeve
>> (when coolant is hot or cold?)
>>
>> I ask because the old bellows style thermostat
>> will cover the bypass port when the thermostat opens
>>
>> then I have another wax thermostat and the sleeve
>> actually cover the bypass when it is cold, and
>> doesn't cover it when the thermostat opens.... so
>> it works exact opposite to the old bellows style
>> thermostat.
>>
>> confused....
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
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>>
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>>
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>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>
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>
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>
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It's been years, and my memory is (always) suspect, but I believe I
put a RS in a pan of boiling water (with a frog, of course). The
conical top of the RS goes up in the thermostat housing, so I think
the moving part can only go down. IIRC, the sleeve only moved a
quarter-inch or so and I thought at the time it would only cover
maybe half of the bypass port.<br>
<br>
I mostly came to the conclusion Michael did: Covering the port or
not makes no measurable difference; it's certainly not a cure for
overheating Healeys.<br>
<br>
On another note; I drained my BJ8 to install another heater valve
and block valve and, when filling noticed some crud blocking a
couple tubes. It was hard to extract, but when I did it appeared to
be solder that had come off from somewher (by the shape probably
from around a tube). Rad's not leaking, but I'm not a happy camper;
this was an 'uprated' core installed less than 6 or 7 years ago.<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/29/2022 7:00 PM, Alan Seigrist
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAFBXTkLPi991vRbE8hh0km8XpX1dUQvhiCFyEa_xMguMoRY-sw@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">Hi Bob -
<div><br>
</div>
<div>the Robertshaw thermostats are nicely made, but they open
the wrong way around... let me do some measurements as I am
dealing with the cooling on my BJ8 now. I have a robert
shaw... as well as another sleeved thermostat as well as the
bellows.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Best,</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Alan</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Mar 30, 2022 at 9:54
AM Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div> Years ago, someone--might have been BCS, but I'm not
sure--was selling a Robertshaw thermostat with a brass
sleeve soldered to it (Robertshaw thermostats have a center
portion that moves up and down). The one I bought was
160deg; I desoldered the sleeve and soldered it to a 180deg
Robertshaw. I bought one of the original, bellows-type from
Kees--whatever happened to him?--but never installed it;
heard they were the 'fail closed' type, which could turn a
minor failure into a catastrophe (still have it around
somewhere).<br>
<br>
<a
href="https://flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/products/robertshaw-330-160-degree-thermostat";
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">https://flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/products/robertshaw-330-160-degree-thermostat</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 3/29/2022 6:35 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">Harold -
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thank you, now I understand how the whole thing is
supposed to work. The sleeve works to cut off the
bypass so that hot water is not recycled into the
system after it warms up. FWIW, this only applies to
the 6 cyl, the 4 cyl doesn't have any sort of bypass.<br>
<br>
Yes, I think it would be great if you could share with
us which thermostat to purchase and how to modify it.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Best,</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Alan</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Mar 30, 2022
at 1:28 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px
0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div lang="EN-US">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The coolant bypass plays an
important but problematic role in the Healeyâ??s
cooling system. When the thermostat is closed
coolant returns to the water pump via the
bypass. See the red circle on the attached
picture. The bypass is important for three
reasons: its allows the coolant in the block to
continue to circulate and come to a uniform
temperature before the thermostat opens, it
prevents hot spots that could develop from
stagnant coolant and it prevents the water pump
from dead heading.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The problematic part is in
the original design the bypass was closed by a
sleeve on the bellows type thermostat when the
thermostat opened. The original Bellows type
thermostat used a volatile liquid and were not
reliable and were not suitable for the 7 psi
cooling system pressure. Wax type thermostats
are much more reliable but they do not have a
sleeve to close off the bypass. There may be
some expensive wax type replicas of the original
bellows type.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">After looking at many options
the best option for a reasonably priced wax type
thermostat with a sleeve to close off the bay
pass is the modified Land Rover Series ll
thermostat. If anyone would like to know about
modifying the Landver thermostat let me know. It
can be easily done.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Harold</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div
style="border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:none;border-top:1pt
solid rgb(225,225,225);padding:3pt 0in 0in">
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="border:none;padding:0in"><b>From: </b><a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">Michael
Salter via Healeys</a><br>
<b>Sent: </b>Tuesday, March 29, 2022 9:17 AM<br>
<b>To: </b><a
href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net";
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">Healey
list</a><br>
<b>Subject: </b>Re: [Healeys] Coolant bypass
port in the head - 6-cyl</p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The coolant travels from
the bottom of the radiator to the water pump
into the block then from the block into the
head then through the thermostat to the top of
the radiator.</p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">M</p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Tue., Mar. 29, 2022,
11:57 a.m. Elton S, <<a
href="mailto:eps2660@gmail.com";
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">eps2660@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:</p>
</div>
<blockquote
style="border-top:none;border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:1pt
solid rgb(204,204,204);padding:0in 0in 0in
6pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">As a related question,
what is the direction of flow through the
radiator - up from the bottom or down from
the top?</p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Elton  </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">BJ7</p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Tue, Mar 29, 2022
at 11:44 AM Michael Salter <<a
href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com";
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:</p>
</div>
<blockquote
style="border-top:none;border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:1pt
solid rgb(204,204,204);padding:0in 0in 0in
6pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">As Gary points out,
and far as I have been able to figure
out, the bypass passage is open when
the engine is cold, the idea being
that by "short circuiting" the
radiator the coolant in the heater and
bypass passage will warm up more
quickly and the heater will produce
heat more quickly. </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">We had a slew of
the "shrouded " type thermostats
that I bought when Smiths Canada
closed down. The part number was
43570/28 and we used to sell them to
customers who reported overheating
problems. </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">I stopped
promoting them as a potential
solution to overheating issues after
being taken to task by a customer
who did an extensive study of the
issue and proved, at least to my
satisfaction, that they improved
cooling not one iota.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">M</p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Tue., Mar. 29,
2022, 10:47 a.m. Alan Seigrist, <<a
href="mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">healey.nut@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:</p>
</div>
<blockquote
style="border-top:none;border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:1pt
solid rgb(204,204,204);padding:0in 0in
0in
6pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">I don't know if
this has ever been answered
before, but where does the little
bypass port begin?  </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">What parts of
the head does that bypass come
in contact with? <br>
<br>
When do you want to cover the
port with a sleeve (when coolant
is hot or cold?)</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">I ask because
the old bellows style thermostat
will cover the bypass port when
the thermostat opens<br>
<br>
then I have another wax
thermostat and the sleeve
actually cover the bypass when
it is cold, and doesn't cover it
when the thermostat opens.... so
it works exact opposite to the
old bellows style thermostat.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">confused....<br>
<br>
Cheers,</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Alan</p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="margin-bottom:12pt">_______________________________________________<br>
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