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Re:
*Still wondering how adjusting camber, for instance--zero camber is
recommended (newer cars have slightly neg. camber)--for the radial tires
most of us run is a hazard (assuming it's done properly). *
I would have completely agreed with you Bob until I started doing some
basic designing of front suspension systems.
Although changing the camber may seem like a small thing you would be
surprised at how much a small adjustment in any of the suspension angles of
dimensions affects other things including "kingpin offset" and "bump steer"
each of which can have a profound effect on ride and handling.
As an example I have a Mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4. This car has 4 wheel
steering but I don't think that is relevant.
When I bought it fancy alloy replacement wheels had been installed. These
wheels moved the front tyre contact patch outboard around 1.5 cm.
The car was absolutely horrendous to drive with profound torque steer upon
the application of full throttle (320 BHP), appalling "tram tracking" and
incredible tyre wear.
I had another 3000 GT come in for service and as a test fitted the wheels
off that car onto mine. The transformation was absolutely unbelievable;
both the handling problems vanished completely.
I almost managed to talk the owner of the other 3000 into swapping his
regular wheels for my fancy alloys but just couldn't do it and came clean
by letting him drive my car with the alloy wheels back on.
Small changes can have VERY LARGE consequences.
M
On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 11:22 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> That's odd; the bearings should be immersed in grease (although I've
> wondered how well greasing the top trunnion works, as a lot gets squished
> out).
>
> I installed the Torrington bearings on my BJ8 years ago; I thought
> steering effort was reduced a bit (but I think part of it was confirmatio=
n
> bias). Agree that it would make more sense to install them on the bottom,
> load-bearing, trunnion.
>
> Bob
>
> ps. Still wondering how adjusting camber, for instance--zero camber is
> recommended (newer cars have slightly neg. camber)--for the radial tires
> most of us run is a hazard (assuming it's done properly).
>
>
> On 1/6/2021 7:34 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
> I installed a couple of sets of those many years ago. Unfortunately the
> bearings were made from carbon steel not stainless and they rusted up aft=
er
> about 1 year.
> Hopefully the manufacturers now make them from stainless andor brass.
>
> M
>
> On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49 AM Bluehealey <bluehealey@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> These are the ones.
>>
>> https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top=
-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx
>> Well worth doing.
>> The other often overlooked source of heavy steering is the Steering
>> Idler. It is rarely lubricated, has no real reservoir for oil, and a poo=
r
>> seal at the bottom. I suggest releasing the ball joints that connect to =
the
>> drop arm to check it for stiffness. Complete removal of the idler isn=E2=
=80=99t a
>> difficult job and is the best way to clean and lubricate.
>> The caster is pretty good on these cars (the initial design was good).
>> Camber could go from positive to negative to be more compatible with rad=
ial
>> tyres. Also check and minimise toe-in. This has a radical impact on
>> steering feel when wrong (in either direction).
>> If after all that you still have problems, then go for the caster change=
s
>> you have in mind and tell us about your findings. The Team may learn
>> something.
>> The only other aspect that seems to vary from car to car is bump steer.
>> Some can be horrible on fast bumpies and others are on rails. I=E2=80=
=99ve never
>> seen a decent treatise on dealing with this on our Big Healeys.
>> Have fun.
>> Alan - from my iPad
>>
>> On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net <lawrence.swift@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> =EF=BB=BFWhen I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust bearing=
s at the
>> top of the kingpin replaced with bearings - made a huge difference in th=
e
>> ease of steering.
>>
>> On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or
>> maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts"
>>
>>
>> How so?
>>
>>
>> On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1@charter.net wrote:
>>
>> I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er blow" The 1/16-1/8"
>> toe-in is most important for proper tire wear. The other two are factor=
y
>> fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin mak=
es
>> the parts. Hank
>>
>>
>>
>>
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Re:=20
<i>Still wondering how adjusting camber, for instance--zero camber
is recommended (newer cars have slightly neg. camber)--for the
radial tires most of us run is a hazard (assuming it's done
properly). <br></i></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-fam=
ily:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I would have completely agree=
d with you Bob until I started doing some basic designing of front suspensi=
on systems. <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:com=
ic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Although changing the camber may see=
m like a small thing you would be surprised at how much a small adjustment =
in any of the suspension angles of dimensions affects other things includin=
g "kingpin offset" and "bump steer" each of which can h=
ave a profound effect on ride and handling.</div><div class=3D"gmail_defaul=
t" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">As an exa=
mple I have a Mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4. This car has 4 wheel steering but I d=
on't think that is relevant. <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" sty=
le=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">When I bought i=
t fancy alloy replacement wheels had been installed. These wheels moved the=
front tyre contact patch outboard around 1.5 cm. <br></div><div class=3D"g=
mail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small=
">The car was absolutely horrendous to drive with profound torque steer upo=
n the application of full throttle (320 BHP), appalling "tram tracking=
" and incredible tyre wear.=C2=A0 <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_defaul=
t" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I had ano=
ther 3000 GT come in for service and as a test fitted the wheels off that c=
ar onto mine. The transformation was absolutely unbelievable; both the hand=
ling problems vanished completely.=C2=A0 <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_defa=
ult" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I almos=
t managed to talk the owner of the other 3000 into swapping his regular whe=
els for my fancy alloys but just couldn't do it and came clean by letti=
ng him drive my car with the alloy wheels back on.</div><div class=3D"gmail=
_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Sm=
all changes can have VERY LARGE consequences.</div><div class=3D"gmail_defa=
ult" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br></=
div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-se=
rif;font-size:small"><i></i></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div=
dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 11:22 AM Bob Spide=
ll <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; target=3D"_blank">bspidell@c=
omcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding=
-left:1ex">
=20
=20
=20
<div>
That's odd; the bearings should be immersed in grease (although I&#=
39;ve
wondered how well greasing the top trunnion works, as a lot gets
squished out).<br>
<br>
I installed the Torrington bearings on my BJ8 years ago; I thought
steering effort was reduced a bit (but I think part of it was
confirmation bias). Agree that it would make more sense to install
them on the bottom, load-bearing, trunnion.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
ps. Still wondering how adjusting camber, for instance--zero camber
is recommended (newer cars have slightly neg. camber)--for the
radial tires most of us run is a hazard (assuming it's done
properly).<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 1/6/2021 7:34 AM, Michael Salter
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
=20
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,san=
s-serif;font-size:small">I installed a couple of sets of
those many years ago. Unfortunately the bearings were made
from carbon steel not stainless and they rusted up after about
1 year. <br>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,san=
s-serif;font-size:small">Hopefully the manufacturers now
make them from stainless andor brass.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,san=
s-serif;font-size:small"><br>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,san=
s-serif;font-size:small">M<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49 A=
M
Bluehealey <<a href=3D"mailto:bluehealey@gmail.com"; target=3D"=
_blank">bluehealey@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"auto">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">These are the ones.
<div><a href=3D"https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/bi=
g-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx" target=3D"_bl=
ank">https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/t=
op-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx</a></div>
<div>Well worth doing.</div>
<div>The other often overlooked source of heavy steering
is the Steering Idler. It is rarely lubricated, has no
real reservoir for oil, and a poor seal at the bottom.
I suggest releasing the ball joints that connect to
the drop arm to check it for stiffness. Complete
removal of the idler isn=E2=80=99t a difficult job and is=
the
best way to clean and lubricate.</div>
<div>The caster is pretty good on these cars (the
initial design was good). Camber could go from
positive to negative to be more compatible with radial
tyres. Also check and minimise toe-in. This has a
radical impact on steering feel when wrong (in either
direction).</div>
<div>If after all that you still have problems, then go
for the caster changes you have in mind and tell us
about your findings. The Team may learn something.</div>
<div>The only other aspect that seems to vary from car
to car is bump steer. Some can be horrible on fast
bumpies and others are on rails.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99ve never=
seen a
decent treatise on dealing with this on our Big
Healeys.<br>
Have fun.<br>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Alan - from my iPad</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35,
Team.net <<a href=3D"mailto:lawrence.swift@gmail.c=
om" target=3D"_blank">lawrence.swift@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<span>When I rebuilt the fron=
t end
on my BT7, I had the trust bearings at the top
of the kingpin replaced with bearings - made a
huge difference in the ease of steering.</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<blockquote type=3D"cite"><span>On Jan 5, 2021, at
10:36 AM, Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"mailto:bspid=
ell@comcast.net" target=3D"_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:</span><br>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type=3D"cite"><span></span><br>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type=3D"cite"><span>re: "The other t=
wo
are factory fixed and too dangerous to play
with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the
parts"</span><br>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type=3D"cite"><span></span><br>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type=3D"cite"><span>How so?</span><br>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type=3D"cite"><span></span><br>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type=3D"cite"><span>On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM,
<a href=3D"mailto:gradea1@charter.net"; target=3D"=
_blank">gradea1@charter.net</a>
wrote:</span><br>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<blockquote type=3D"cite"><span>I'm with the
philosophy "set the toe and let 'er bl=
ow"
The 1/16-1/8" toe-in is most important for
proper tire wear.=C2=A0 The other two are facto=
ry
fixed and too dangerous to play with or
maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the
parts. Hank</span><br>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<blockquote type=3D"cite"><span></span><br>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type=3D"cite"><span></span><br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
</div>
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