Steve,
When you have the lifters out, have a look at the cam lobes.
Low compress test means low combustion pressure which means high stress
on the crankshaft? I don't know; just asking if someone does.
Shipwright's disease is just around the corner. :)
Cheers,
Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
On 3/12/20 7:29 PM, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys wrote:
> Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the
> valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of
> burning oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to
> redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also going to get new
> valve guides pressed in and replace the ones in the head as the valves
> seem to rock a bit going up and down. The head though is not warped and
> is straight, but I will get it checked out for cracks and resurface the
> head to make it super smooth.
> Â Â Â I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the
> block and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to
> make sure it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there.
> Â Â Â I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard,
> close up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem.
> Right now, in for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.
> Â Â Â Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then
> I will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all,
> it seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen.
> Â Â Â Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually
> quite the fun project.
> Steven Kingsbury
>
> On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hank
>>
>> The fact that number 2 exhaust valve is not the same colour as the
>> others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be
>> worth checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost
>> clearance. A partially seized rocker is possible but not likely. This
>> may not be the problem but it would not take much effort to pull the
>> valve out and check for any burning on the working face.
>>
>> Best regards
>>
>> On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1@charter.net
>> <mailto:gradea1@charter.net>> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Steven-good to hear from you!
>>
>> That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks
>> between 2-3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak
>> due to warped head...especially if valves and rings checked good.
>>
>> Also, I don't recommend NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause
>> of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or
>> tappet rods bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.
>>
>> Regards, Hank Leach
>>
>>
>> -----------------------------------------
>>
>> From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys" __
>> To: healeys@autox.teamnet <mailto:healeys@autox.teamnet>
>> Cc:
>> Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
>> Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
>>
>> Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you
>> remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and
>> only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was
>> prepared to find a problem with I flipped it over to expose the
>> valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a
>> bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I
>> went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat
>> high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the
>> top, but other than that and good.
>> Â Â Â So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in
>> and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where
>> it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve
>> hours later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All chambers
>> still even in their fluid retention.
>> Â Â Â So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost
>> even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same
>> depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and
>> all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and evenly in each
>> cylinder.
>> Â Â Â I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in
>> town, an old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car
>> at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and
>> I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and help. Also as a side
>> note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass and can see now
>> cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I was
>> just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would be
>> obvious.
>> Â Â Â I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side,
>> inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I
>> said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something
>> wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can see something I
>> can't.
>>
>> IMG_20200311_143602.jpg
>> Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on
>> number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or
>> visible damage.
>> IMG_20200311_172123.jpg
>> And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It
>> didn't drain out and just sat there.
>> __
>>
>>
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>>
>> --
>> Best wishes
>>
>> John Harper
>>
>> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
>
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