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Larry/Roland
Thanks for the suggestions and I neglected to say in my earlier post that I
plan to pull new hot and ground leads to the heater and establish a new
ground. Though the fuse to the heater has never blown t is very possible
that one or both of the leads has deteriorated, etc and intermittently goes
open. Moss wants $150+ for a new switch and I am hopeful that a good dose
of Electric Clean will dissolve any interior corrosion that may exist.
Meanwhile, I went to the local Ace and Lowes in search of black crackle
paint but no luck and will have to get it online. I did find some 1-1`/2"
crutch tips that will fit nicely over the outlets to the windscreen
demister which I plan to blank off in order to increase airflow.
Best--Michael Oritt .
On Fri, Oct 26, 2018 at 2:16 PM Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com> wrote:
> Well keep trying to fix it till it is good and broke. Some times those
> rheostats just need a little disturbance to get them to work properly. They
> get old and rub the winding in one place and need to be disturbed to get
> the wiper to rub on the winding in a different place on the winding. If it
> quiets again, shoot the money cannon and replace it. It may have more life
> in it still.
>
> Larry
> '67 BJ8
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
> To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Oct 26, 2018 11:53 am
> Subject: [Healeys] 100 Heater motor or switch problem
>
>
>
> About an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the heater face-plate
> which gave me access to the back of the rheostat switch. I first verified
> that there was power to the switch and then jumped across the two posts
> with a screwdriver. The heater motor came on full blast, telling me that
> the problem was in the switch, which had felt a bit odd when I initially
> encountered the problem a few days ago as the "detent-like feel" when
> turning the fan on was missing. Though I assumed I had identified the
> problem as being in the switch I nevertheless turned the control knob just
> to see how it felt and--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immediately came
> on. What's more it responded perfectly to the rheostat, going from full
> blast to low just as it always had.
>
>
> I am 100% certain that I had the ignition switch on and the heater power
> lead connected with an intact fuse and I can only say that this is a
> typical Healey deal, and now that the car has my attention I am sure that
> should I simply close the heater up the switch will probably act up at some
> point in the future. I'm going to investigate whether I can source a
> replacement switch, either Lucas or not. I'll also take the opportunity to
> repaint the front plate in black crackle and I am going to close off the
> top opening that supplies heated air to the two vents in back of the
> windshield, which seems like a waste of hot air.
>
> Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this gives some of you
> who have experienced similar situations a laugh.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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>
>
--00000000000001f0bc05792607c9
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Larry=
/Roland</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div=
><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Thanks for the sugges=
tions and I neglected to say in my earlier post that I plan to pull new hot=
and ground leads to the heater and establish a new ground.=C2=A0 Though th=
e fuse to the heater has never blown t is very possible that one or both of=
the leads has deteriorated, etc and intermittently goes open.=C2=A0 Moss w=
ants $150+ for a new switch and I am hopeful that a good dose of Electric C=
lean will dissolve any interior corrosion that may exist.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div>=
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div =
class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Meanwhile, I went to=
the local Ace and Lowes in search of black crackle paint but no luck and w=
ill have to get it online.=C2=A0 I did find some 1-1`/2" crutch tips t=
hat will fit nicely over the outlets to the windscreen demister which I pla=
n to blank off in order to increase airflow.=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail=
_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_defa=
ult" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Michael Oritt=C2=A0 .=C2=A0=C2=A0=
</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Fri, Oct 26,=
2018 at 2:16 PM Larry Wendland <<a href=3D"mailto:bighealey3k@aim.com";>=
bighealey3k@aim.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quot=
e" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">=
Well keep trying to fix it till it is good and broke. Some times those rheo=
stats just need a little disturbance to get them to work properly. They get=
old and rub the winding in one place and need to be disturbed to get the w=
iper to rub on the winding in a different place on the winding. If it quiet=
s again, shoot the money cannon and replace it. It may have more life in it=
still. <br>
<br>
Larry<br>
'67 BJ8=C2=A0 =C2=A0<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Michael Oritt <<a href=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com"; target=
=3D"_blank">michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>><br>
To: Austin Healey <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_=
blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Sent: Fri, Oct 26, 2018 11:53 am<br>
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Heater motor or switch problem<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
About an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the heater face-plate wh=
ich gave me access to the back of the rheostat switch. I first verified tha=
t there was power to the switch and then jumped across the two posts with a=
screwdriver. The heater motor came on full blast, telling me that the prob=
lem was in the switch, which had felt a bit odd when I initially encountere=
d the problem a few days ago as the "detent-like feel" when turni=
ng the fan on was missing. Though I assumed I had identified the problem as=
being in the switch I nevertheless turned the control knob just to see how=
it felt and--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immediately came on. What=
9;s more it responded perfectly to the rheostat, going from full blast to l=
ow just as it always had.=C2=A0<br>
<br>
<br>
I am 100% certain that I had the ignition switch on and the heater power le=
ad connected with an intact fuse and I can only say that this is a typical =
Healey deal, and now that the car has my attention I am sure that should I =
simply close the heater up the switch will probably act up at some point in=
the future. I'm going to investigate whether I can source a replacemen=
t switch, either Lucas or not. I'll also take the opportunity to repain=
t the front plate in black crackle and I am going to close off the top open=
ing that supplies heated air to the two vents in back of the windshield, wh=
ich seems like a waste of hot air.<br>
<br>
Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this gives some of you w=
ho have experienced similar situations a laugh.<br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys"; rel=3D"noreferre=
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</blockquote></div>
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