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Hi Michael,
I would think that you would be best to remove the heater entirely because
as I recall the motor is trapped between the matrix and the firewall.
There are 3 1/4" UNF studs on the back of the heater that secure it in
position
2 protrude through a bracket which is welded to the upper surface of the
air duct and can be accessed by reaching behind the heater.
The 3rd, bottom, one is a little more difficult. The nut is inside the air
duct and is accessed by removing a rubber plug from the engine side of the
firewall about 3" below the wiring harness grommet.
Obviously the 2 hoses have to be detached and the 2 bullet connectors on
the wires to the heater disconnected.
I have found that the motor is easily serviced and that the rheostat is
usually reasonably reliable.
Installation is, as you have noted, the reversal of removal and takes 10
times as long.
M
On Thu, Oct 25, 2018 at 2:08 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
wrote:
> The fan motor in my heater worked nicely all summer but naturally chose to
> crap out once cooler weather arrived a few days ago and I'd like some
> advice from those 100 drivers who have previously removed/remounted their
> heaters.
>
> I have verified that power is getting to the heater lead from the fusebox
> I installed in the engine compartment, and the green wire disappears into
> and through the firewall, apparently intact Without disassembling the
> heater I cannot access the rheostat switch to trace whether it or the motor
> is the issue and before I pop off the three spring clips that seem to hold
> the heater faceplate to the rear plate I would like to know that doing so
> will allow me to get to the heater's innards.
>
> Also I would appreciate learning whether reassembly is the reverse of
> disassembly as those clips, esp. the one at the 12:00 o'clock position, do
> not look like they will be easy to get back into place with the heater
> mounted to the firewall, which leads me to my last question: How is the
> heater unit fixed to and removed from the car should I need to access the
> fan motor? Aside from one screw going through an ell-bracket at the top of
> the faceplate I see no other fasteners projecting through the firewall.
>
> Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hi Michael,</div><div class=3D"gmail_defa=
ult" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I would=
think that you would be best to remove the heater entirely because as I re=
call the motor is trapped between the matrix and the firewall.</div><div cl=
ass=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-si=
ze:small">There are 3 1/4" UNF studs on the back of the heater that se=
cure it in position</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:=
comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">2 protrude through a bracket whic=
h is welded to the upper surface of the air duct and can be accessed by rea=
ching behind the heater.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-fa=
mily:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The 3rd, bottom, one is a li=
ttle more difficult. The nut is inside the air duct and is accessed by remo=
ving a rubber plug from the engine side of the firewall about 3" below=
the wiring harness grommet. <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Obviously the 2 h=
oses have to be detached and the 2 bullet connectors on the wires to the he=
ater disconnected.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:c=
omic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I have found that the motor is eas=
ily serviced and that the rheostat is usually reasonably reliable.</div><di=
v class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;fon=
t-size:small">Installation is, as you have noted, the reversal of removal a=
nd takes 10 times as long.<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"f=
ont-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br></div><div class=
=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:=
small">M<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On =
Thu, Oct 25, 2018 at 2:08 PM Michael Oritt <<a href=3D"mailto:michael.or=
itt@gmail.com">michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote =
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid=
;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"c=
olor:#3333ff"><span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,=
Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,25=
0,250)">The fan motor in my heater worked nicely all summer but naturally c=
hose to crap out once cooler weather arrived a few days ago and I'd lik=
e some advice from those 100 drivers who have previously removed/remounted =
their heaters.=C2=A0</span><br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Ver=
dana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color=
:rgb(250,250,250)"><br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Ari=
al,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250=
,250,250)"><span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tah=
oma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,2=
50)">I have verified that power is getting to the heater lead from the fuse=
box I installed in the engine compartment, and the green wire disappears in=
to and through the firewall, apparently intact Without disassembling the he=
ater I cannot access the rheostat switch to trace whether it or the motor i=
s the issue and before I pop off the three spring clips that seem to hold t=
he heater faceplate to the rear plate I would like to know that doing so wi=
ll allow me to get to the heater's innards.=C2=A0</span><br style=3D"co=
lor:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-seri=
f;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><br style=3D"color:rgb(=
51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-s=
ize:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,=
51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13=
px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">Also I would appreciate learning whet=
her reassembly is the reverse of disassembly as those clips, esp. the one a=
t the 12:00 o'clock position, do not look like they will be easy to get=
back into place with the heater mounted to the firewall, which leads me to=
my last question: How is the heater unit fixed to and removed from the car=
should I need to access the fan motor? Aside from one screw going through =
an ell-bracket at the top of the faceplate I see no other fasteners project=
ing through the firewall.</span><br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-famil=
y:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-=
color:rgb(250,250,250)"><br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdan=
a,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rg=
b(250,250,250)"><span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Aria=
l,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,=
250,250)">Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt</span><br></div></div>
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</blockquote></div>
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