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It will stop working as soon as you finish installing the repainted front
cover ... guaranteed =F0=9F=98=81=F0=9F=98=81
M
On Fri, Oct 26, 2018, 11:54 AM Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
wrote:
> About an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the heater face-plate
> which gave me access to the back of the rheostat switch. I first verified
> that there was power to the switch and then jumped across the two posts
> with a screwdriver. The heater motor came on full blast, telling me that
> the problem was in the switch, which had felt a bit odd when I initially
> encountered the problem a few days ago as the "detent-like feel" when
> turning the fan on was missing. Though I assumed I had identified the
> problem as being in the switch I nevertheless turned the control knob jus=
t
> to see how it felt and--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immediately came
> on. What's more it responded perfectly to the rheostat, going from full
> blast to low just as it always had.
>
>
> I am 100% certain that I had the ignition switch on and the heater power
> lead connected with an intact fuse and I can only say that this is a
> typical Healey deal, and now that the car has my attention I am sure that
> should I simply close the heater up the switch will probably act up at so=
me
> point in the future. I'm going to investigate whether I can source a
> replacement switch, either Lucas or not. I'll also take the opportunity t=
o
> repaint the front plate in black crackle and I am going to close off the
> top opening that supplies heated air to the two vents in back of the
> windshield, which seems like a waste of hot air.
>
> Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this gives some of you
> who have experienced similar situations a laugh.
> _______________________________________________
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>
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<div dir=3D"auto">It will stop working as soon as you finish installing the=
repainted front cover ... guaranteed =F0=9F=98=81=F0=9F=98=81<div dir=3D"a=
uto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote=
"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Fri, Oct 26, 2018, 11:54 AM Michael Oritt, <<a hre=
f=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com";>michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>> wrote:=
<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;bord=
er-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gma=
il_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><font color=3D"#3333FF" style=3D"font-f=
amily:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;backgro=
und-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style=3D"font-family:Arial">About an hour=
ago I popped the spring clips off of the heater face-plate which gave me a=
ccess to the back of the rheostat switch. I first verified that there was p=
ower to the switch and then jumped across the two posts with a screwdriver.=
The heater motor came on full blast, telling me that the problem was in th=
e switch, which had felt a bit odd when I initially encountered the problem=
a few days ago as the "detent-like feel" when turning the fan on=
was missing. Though I assumed I had identified the problem as being in the=
switch I nevertheless turned the control knob just to see how it felt and-=
-wonder of wonders--the fan motor immediately came on. What's more it r=
esponded perfectly to the rheostat, going from full blast to low just as it=
always had.=C2=A0</span></font><br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-famil=
y:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-=
color:rgb(250,250,250)"><font color=3D"#3333FF" style=3D"font-family:Verdan=
a,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rg=
b(250,250,250)"><span style=3D"font-family:Arial"><br></span></font><br sty=
le=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><font color=3D"=
#3333FF" style=3D"font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-seri=
f;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style=3D"font-fam=
ily:Arial">I am 100% certain that I had the ignition switch on and the heat=
er power lead connected with an intact fuse and I can only say that this is=
a typical Healey deal, and now that the car has my attention I am sure tha=
t should I simply close the heater up the switch will probably act up at so=
me point in the future. I'm going to investigate whether I can source a=
replacement switch, either Lucas or not. I'll also take the opportunit=
y to repaint the front plate in black crackle and I am going to close off t=
he top opening that supplies heated air to the two vents in back of the win=
dshield, which seems like a waste of hot air.<br><br>Thanks all for your pa=
tience and advise and I hope this gives some of you who have experienced si=
milar situations a laugh.</span></font><br></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
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r>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
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