Thanks Bob.
I just had my car to the shop before our trip and the timing was set to
the spec. 10 degrees BTDC. I did have a problem one day in Waco where
the car was running rough, missing, and finally quit on me. Finally
discovered the rotor molded-in key had sheered so the rotor was not
staying properly positioned on the shaft. I had a spare rotor and
replaced it, and it ran fine again. I will check the new rotor to make
sure it is okay, since that could obviously cause a timing issue. The
car ran fine the next day after the overheating, the rest of the way
home, several hundred miles, but it was not as hot outside. My mechanic
has new needles for the HD8s ordered, because it is running rich, but I
think a rich mixture would make it run cooler rather than hotter, if I
remember correctly from my private pilot days.
I'm hoping I don't have a bad head gasket again! I've had it replaced
twice since I got the car. The second time it was done at a fancy (read
expensive) Healey specialty shop near Sioux City IA, and he had the head
planed, checked the block for level, and put in new head studs, gasket,
etc. For what it cost, I would hope it was done correctly. The reason
it's been changed twice is because I was getting some oil in the
coolant. I've had oil in the coolant still since the last time it was
changed, but I thought it might be residual oil that was trapped in the
block, heater core etc, from before the last gasket change, and so I
drained refilled with water and Dawn dish soap and ran it and then
rinsed, refilled, ran, rinsed etc. until I saw no more signs of oil -
several exchanges of coolant. I hadn't seen oil in there after that,
but hadn't run the car much since then either. I checked after this
trip and there is oil in the coolant again. I was believing that I have
one of the blocks that seeps oil through the oil passage where it is
very close to the water jacket, but now I am not sure what to think. I
never see any sign of coolant on the oil, and I would think that after
the car is shut off, the coolant would stay pressurized until the heat
dissipates, while the oil pressure would drop to nothing, so you'd think
coolant might find it's way into the oil through the same path the oil
gets to the coolant.
Possibly my cooling issue and the oil seepage share a common cause?
Thanks for the opinions and collective wisdom.
John
'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
'61 Bugeye (Lucy)
On 7/19/2017 6:55 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> My thoughts too. I've done everything Kees suggested, with the
> exception of the electric fan. My BJ8 will go 80mph all day in
> 100+degF heat--just did almost five thousand miles through southern
> CA, NV, AZ, UT, WY, MT, WA, OR and 3 Canadian provinces--and stay
> below 190degF, and my BN2 will do 70mph on hot days and stay below
> 190, which amazes me because it has that goofy, one piece cast
> aluminium fan. Neither will even get up to 180--thermo
> setpoint--unless it's at least 75deg out. I did hit 212 one time
> pulling the Panamint grade out of Death Valley on a 115deg day (had to
> use the heater as an auxiliary radiator--that was fun).
>
> John's car is heating up at speed, which is not the usual problem
> (which is heating up in stop-and-go traffic). I'm thinking there are
> other issues--timing, mixture, crud in the block, ineffective pump,
> etc.--that an Al radiator may help mask, but sooner or later the piper
> has to be paid. Anyway, isn't the main/only benefit of an Al radiator
> is a bit of weight saving? IIRC, copper and brass are better heat
> conductors than Al.
>
> I know I didn't answer your question, John, but I suspect a shiny new
> radiator isn't going to fix the underlying problem.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 7/19/2017 3:23 PM, Oudesluys wrote:
>> Check your water pump on efficiency (cavitation), fit a proper SMITH
>> or equivalent sleeved thermostat, have a more efficient core fitted
>> to your existing radiator and fit an electric radiator fan.
>> An aluminium radiator is not better than a proper copper one.
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>> Op 19-7-2017 om 23:21 schreef John O'Brien:
>>> Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay.
>>>
>>> I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a
>>> great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska
>>> driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and
>>> hotter until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool
>>> down. It boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some
>>> antifreeze solution too. It seemed like, once the gauge got over
>>> 212 the temp rocketed well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge. I
>>> had a similar situation last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot day.
>>>
>>> So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum one.
>>> I put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and never have
>>> a heat problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the
>>> aluminum radiators on ebay. One is a Worley for $355.00 w/ free
>>> shipping
>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-manual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&epid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr
>>>
>>> and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping
>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-/252984917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan
>>> guard looks different. The GPI looks more like the original Healey
>>> rad. I've also seen an American made one from Wizard Cooling for
>>> $499.00,
>>> https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radiator/
>>> that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do not look
>>> like they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck like
>>> the Wizard.
>>>
>>> Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated.
>>>
>>> John O'Brien
>>>
>>> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
>>>
>>> '61 Bugeye (Lucy)
>>>
>>
>>
>
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