My thoughts too. I've done everything Kees suggested, with the
exception of the electric fan. My BJ8 will go 80mph all day in 100+degF
heat--just did almost five thousand miles through southern CA, NV, AZ,
UT, WY, MT, WA, OR and 3 Canadian provinces--and stay below 190degF, and
my BN2 will do 70mph on hot days and stay below 190, which amazes me
because it has that goofy, one piece cast aluminium fan. Neither will
even get up to 180--thermo setpoint--unless it's at least 75deg out. I
did hit 212 one time pulling the Panamint grade out of Death Valley on a
115deg day (had to use the heater as an auxiliary radiator--that was fun).
John's car is heating up at speed, which is not the usual problem (which
is heating up in stop-and-go traffic). I'm thinking there are other
issues--timing, mixture, crud in the block, ineffective pump, etc.--that
an Al radiator may help mask, but sooner or later the piper has to be
paid. Anyway, isn't the main/only benefit of an Al radiator is a bit of
weight saving? IIRC, copper and brass are better heat conductors than Al.
I know I didn't answer your question, John, but I suspect a shiny new
radiator isn't going to fix the underlying problem.
Bob
On 7/19/2017 3:23 PM, Oudesluys wrote:
> Check your water pump on efficiency (cavitation), fit a proper SMITH
> or equivalent sleeved thermostat, have a more efficient core fitted to
> your existing radiator and fit an electric radiator fan.
> An aluminium radiator is not better than a proper copper one.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 19-7-2017 om 23:21 schreef John O'Brien:
>> Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay.
>>
>> I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a
>> great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska
>> driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and hotter
>> until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool down. It
>> boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some antifreeze solution
>> too. It seemed like, once the gauge got over 212 the temp rocketed
>> well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge. I had a similar situation
>> last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot day.
>>
>> So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum one. I
>> put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and never have a
>> heat problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the
>> aluminum radiators on ebay. One is a Worley for $355.00 w/ free
>> shipping
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-manual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&epid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr
>>
>> and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-/252984917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr
>>
>>
>>
>> Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan
>> guard looks different. The GPI looks more like the original Healey
>> rad. I've also seen an American made one from Wizard Cooling for
>> $499.00,
>> https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radiator/
>> that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do not look
>> like they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck like
>> the Wizard.
>>
>> Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated.
>>
>> John O'Brien
>>
>> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
>>
>> '61 Bugeye (Lucy)
>>
>
>
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