Yes they did. I forgot to mention that.
John
On 7/20/2017 9:37 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> re: "... The second time it was done at a fancy (read expensive)
> Healey specialty shop near Sioux City IA, and he had the head planed,
> checked the block for level, and put in new head studs, gasket, etc.
> For what it cost, I would hope it was done correctly."
>
> Did they magnaflux the head?
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 7/19/2017 7:22 PM, John O'Brien wrote:
>> Thanks Bob.
>>
>> I just had my car to the shop before our trip and the timing was set
>> to the spec. 10 degrees BTDC. I did have a problem one day in Waco
>> where the car was running rough, missing, and finally quit on me.
>> Finally discovered the rotor molded-in key had sheered so the rotor
>> was not staying properly positioned on the shaft. I had a spare
>> rotor and replaced it, and it ran fine again. I will check the new
>> rotor to make sure it is okay, since that could obviously cause a
>> timing issue. The car ran fine the next day after the overheating,
>> the rest of the way home, several hundred miles, but it was not as
>> hot outside. My mechanic has new needles for the HD8s ordered,
>> because it is running rich, but I think a rich mixture would make it
>> run cooler rather than hotter, if I remember correctly from my
>> private pilot days.
>>
>> I'm hoping I don't have a bad head gasket again! I've had it
>> replaced twice since I got the car. The second time it was done at a
>> fancy (read expensive) Healey specialty shop near Sioux City IA, and
>> he had the head planed, checked the block for level, and put in new
>> head studs, gasket, etc. For what it cost, I would hope it was done
>> correctly. The reason it's been changed twice is because I was
>> getting some oil in the coolant. I've had oil in the coolant still
>> since the last time it was changed, but I thought it might be
>> residual oil that was trapped in the block, heater core etc, from
>> before the last gasket change, and so I drained refilled with water
>> and Dawn dish soap and ran it and then rinsed, refilled, ran, rinsed
>> etc. until I saw no more signs of oil - several exchanges of
>> coolant. I hadn't seen oil in there after that, but hadn't run the
>> car much since then either. I checked after this trip and there is
>> oil in the coolant again. I was believing that I have one of the
>> blocks that seeps oil through the oil passage where it is very close
>> to the water jacket, but now I am not sure what to think. I never see
>> any sign of coolant on the oil, and I would think that after the car
>> is shut off, the coolant would stay pressurized until the heat
>> dissipates, while the oil pressure would drop to nothing, so you'd
>> think coolant might find it's way into the oil through the same path
>> the oil gets to the coolant.
>>
>> Possibly my cooling issue and the oil seepage share a common cause?
>>
>> Thanks for the opinions and collective wisdom.
>>
>> John
>>
>> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
>>
>> '61 Bugeye (Lucy)
>> On 7/19/2017 6:55 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>> My thoughts too. I've done everything Kees suggested, with the
>>> exception of the electric fan. My BJ8 will go 80mph all day in
>>> 100+degF heat--just did almost five thousand miles through southern
>>> CA, NV, AZ, UT, WY, MT, WA, OR and 3 Canadian provinces--and stay
>>> below 190degF, and my BN2 will do 70mph on hot days and stay below
>>> 190, which amazes me because it has that goofy, one piece cast
>>> aluminium fan. Neither will even get up to 180--thermo
>>> setpoint--unless it's at least 75deg out. I did hit 212 one time
>>> pulling the Panamint grade out of Death Valley on a 115deg day (had
>>> to use the heater as an auxiliary radiator--that was fun).
>>>
>>> John's car is heating up at speed, which is not the usual problem
>>> (which is heating up in stop-and-go traffic). I'm thinking there
>>> are other issues--timing, mixture, crud in the block, ineffective
>>> pump, etc.--that an Al radiator may help mask, but sooner or later
>>> the piper has to be paid. Anyway, isn't the main/only benefit of an
>>> Al radiator is a bit of weight saving? IIRC, copper and brass are
>>> better heat conductors than Al.
>>>
>>> I know I didn't answer your question, John, but I suspect a shiny
>>> new radiator isn't going to fix the underlying problem.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>> On 7/19/2017 3:23 PM, Oudesluys wrote:
>>>> Check your water pump on efficiency (cavitation), fit a proper
>>>> SMITH or equivalent sleeved thermostat, have a more efficient core
>>>> fitted to your existing radiator and fit an electric radiator fan.
>>>> An aluminium radiator is not better than a proper copper one.
>>>>
>>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Op 19-7-2017 om 23:21 schreef John O'Brien:
>>>>> Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay.
>>>>>
>>>>> I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a
>>>>> great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska
>>>>> driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and
>>>>> hotter until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool
>>>>> down. It boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some
>>>>> antifreeze solution too. It seemed like, once the gauge got over
>>>>> 212 the temp rocketed well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge.
>>>>> I had a similar situation last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot
>>>>> day.
>>>>>
>>>>> So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum
>>>>> one. I put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and
>>>>> never have a heat problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any
>>>>> experience with the aluminum radiators on ebay. One is a Worley
>>>>> for $355.00 w/ free shipping
>>>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-manual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&epid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr
>>>>>
>>>>> and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping
>>>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-/252984917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan
>>>>> guard looks different. The GPI looks more like the original
>>>>> Healey rad. I've also seen an American made one from Wizard
>>>>> Cooling for $499.00,
>>>>> https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radiator/
>>>>> that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do not look
>>>>> like they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck
>>>>> like the Wizard.
>>>>>
>>>>> Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated.
>>>>>
>>>>> John O'Brien
>>>>>
>>>>> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
>>>>>
>>>>> '61 Bugeye (Lucy)
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
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>>
>>
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