This was the same problem that MG had with the MGB and the fix they
had was an adjustable rod from the rear view mirror bracket down to
the top of the dash pad.
David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.
On Mar 17, 2011, at 7:49 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> Mark--
>
> Unfortunately we aren't allowed to post pictures on this list or I
> would put
> one up. It actually looks quite elegant--similar to the stabilizer
> bar that
> 356's and SL's had, though in their case it was to keep the
> windshield frame
> from distorting as opposed to clamping down the header bow. The
> hardest
> part is drilling that one little 3/16" hole behind the mirror.....
>
> Best--Michael Prott
>
> On Thu, Mar 17, 2011 at 10:41 AM, mark lapierre
> <lapierrem@sbcglobal.net>wrote:
>
>> Rube Goldberg would be proud, Michael.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
>> *To:* John & Kerry Rowe <jkrowe46@bigpond.net.au>
>> *Cc:* Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> *Sent:* Thu, March 17, 2011 8:50:32 AM
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BT7 windscreen frame
>>
>> John--
>>
>> I did just that on my 100. Rather than using solid steel I used very
>> lightweight 1 x 19 stainless steel cable with fittings that you can
>> purchase at a good marine supply and swedge on with tools they
>> have on
>> hand.
>> I used a toggle fitting at the top and attached it in place of the
>> buffer
>> plate. The bottom end of the cable ends in a threaded terminal
>> which I
>> pass
>> through a small hole in the scuttle just behind the mirror, then
>> tighten
>> everything down via a thumbscrew so that the top seals absolutely
>> tight at
>> speed.
>>
>> Purists need not comment.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>> I had thought of running a stainless steel threaded rod from the
>> centre of
>>> the top frame to dashboard (as MGB??)
>> _______________________________________________
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