That is what I have done. I have fixed the link to the modifications PDF
which shows my wiring diagram and photos of my installation. It is in the My
Modifications section of the Technical page of my site. Thanks for your
patience, all but I had a severe boo-boo on my computer that took me longer
than I wished to fix.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
http://www.healey6.com
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 8:22 AM
To: Alan Seigrist; robert westcott
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake switch
You can install a mechanical switch AND keep the original pressure se in the
system--that way you have a BU should the mechanical one fail. I added the
mechanical one because the original types always required a lot of pressure
to activate.
With the mechanical one, a slight tap on the pedal and I have brake kights.
tom
---- Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:
=============
Hi All -
I have a slightly different opinion here, but I have always found replacing
the brake light pressure switch to be easy and cheap (and I've never had to
return one for being bad).
British cars are designed to where this switch can be replaced without
having to bleed the brakes - if you just swap the bad one out for a good one
quickly. The switches are located on a three way or four way junction very
low on the chassis for this very reason. Once replaced, the switches
activate at the earliest touch of pressure.
I guess my view is it's less trouble to keep the original.... and rigging up
a mechanical switch may suffer from the law of unintended consequences.
That being said, I understand the desire to replace these switches with a
mechanical one, but the hydraulic ones seem to work just fine, they just
need to be replaced every couple of decades like anything.
Alan
'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8
an/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
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