When fitting the long tube inlet manifold it pays to also fab up a bracket
that runs between the two carb flanges and a support post that fits down to
the cylinder block. This is pretty easy to make up with a piece of 3/8" or
1/2" steel tube and welded or bolted to the sheet metal fabricated cross
piece that connects the bottom of the two carb flanges. Clear as mud?
Well anyway, I did this trick and it saves the manifold and is also a good
idea when fitting the Weber carbs as you can then the weight off the
manifolds. The steel tube can be bolted up to a steel tab held by the pan
bolts. It works pretty well. It must of course be custom made as each
header is different and you need to clear for access to the cylinder block
side.
Having a threaded end allows you to adjust the brace to pick up the carb
weight onto the brace/block. Most times the brace cannot be taken straight
down to the block but must be off to the side some to clear the
headers.There are several way to do this, and the manifolds really
appreciate the help.
----- Original Message -----
From: <emanteno@comcast.net>
To: <Cofrog@aol.com>; <FOT@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 1:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Headers
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: Cofrog@aol.com
>
>> I am needing to replace the headers on my TR4A due to the flange
>> thickness
>> on the current ones being about half the flange thickness of the intake
>> manifold flange where both mount to the head.
>
> I bought a set of headers from Ken at BFE in 98, and it and my
> (reinforced) intake manifold have been trouble free since. The headers fit
> great, requiring no diddling to install. The (long runner) intake manifold
> is reinforced on the top of each runner, and has never shown any sign of
> trouble.
> NFI,
> Irv Korey
> _______________________________________________
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>
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