The ones I've had in the past were made of brass secured with brass countersunk
screws. I thinnk the screws were #8s, with the countersink in the brass
manufactured "thrust washer".
Still seems like a strange failure mode. I've run them as tight as 0.004
before without problems. Of course, you make a heck of a lot more power than I
do!
Hope this helps,
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: Gt6steve@AOL.COM
To: FOT@autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 17 Jul 2005 13:00:27 EDT
Subject: securing thrust washers
Greetings Amici,
Last race the GT6 endured the destruction of the thrust face on my brand new
hi-Dollar crankshaft. Initially I suspected I'd put the rear thrust washer
in backwards but when I found it in the pan I confirmed this was not the
case. As yet, I don't have a theory as to why it failed but I'm leaning
toward
inadequate clearance for the RPM's. It was right at .006.
My proposed solution will be to grind the crank rear thrust face smooth
again and add a spacer behind the rear thrust washer to compensate. I'm
looking
to set the block up in the drill press and bore both faces from the top in
the relieved area of the washers. Here's where I get a bit loose. I'm
imagining I'd use brass flathead screws in probably 6-32 thread????????
Anybody
have any suggestions or comments on how they did it? I've read for years
these
need to be "silver-pinned" but I've no clue what that is?
Any help would be appreciated...
Thanx, Steve Smith
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