I suggest don't use shims to space it out & take up wear, but make new
thrust washers. this is not hard for any decent enginner
we use a mill to machine both the block & the cap to make a full circle,
and pin them using hard steel 1mm needle rollers that can be bought at a
decent bearing shop. the pins are inserted in thru the oiling slot so they
dont hit the crank face
The "silver pin" refers to silver steel rod.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: Gt6steve@aol.com [SMTP:Gt6steve@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, 18 July 2005 3:00 AM
To: FOT@autox.team.net
Subject: securing thrust washers
Greetings Amici,
Last race the GT6 endured the destruction of the thrust face on my brand
new
hi-Dollar crankshaft. Initially I suspected I'd put the rear thrust
washer
in backwards but when I found it in the pan I confirmed this was not the
case. As yet, I don't have a theory as to why it failed but I'm leaning
toward
inadequate clearance for the RPM's. It was right at .006.
My proposed solution will be to grind the crank rear thrust face smooth
again and add a spacer behind the rear thrust washer to compensate. I'm
looking
to set the block up in the drill press and bore both faces from the top in
the relieved area of the washers. Here's where I get a bit loose. I'm
imagining I'd use brass flathead screws in probably 6-32 thread????????
Anybody
have any suggestions or comments on how they did it? I've read for years
these
need to be "silver-pinned" but I've no clue what that is?
Any help would be appreciated...
Thanx, Steve Smith
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