Yes take the header loose on the bottom, or you will have a harder time liniing
up
the 2 manifolds when you go back together. my exhaust just got loud agaiin
telling
me my header is cracked again. so I should look for another header, and my spare
R16
has a manifold. like they said you need plenty of different wrenches,also I like
to use the spring covered flex socket adpters and 1/4" flex extension. bolt the
exhaust connection last, saves fighting to get the manifold/header lined up.
Russ Southwell 70 1600
Daniel Neuman wrote:
> So you saying to take the intake and exhaust manifolds off without taking the
> carbs out?? Hmm I know its a pain but there might be a ton more room to
> work with without the solex's inthe way.
> Do I have to unbolt the header from the exhaust ? I have two factory gaskets
> so I should be able to do it... It appears that the gasket that came with my
> header is just not that high quality compared to stock.
> Daniel 69 2000
> Sf CA
>
> > Yes, there are two holes on the head and manifold under and between the
> > intake ports that route coolant into the manifold. It's a common spot for a
> > leak. It's not too hard to remove the manifold. You'll need to take the
> > heat shield off of the intake manifold (under the carbs). Then you can get
> > a deep well socket on the end of a long extension or two all the way back to
> > the nuts underneath the intake manifold. Don't take the carbs off the
> > manifold - that's more work than it's worth.
> > Note too that there's a third freeze plug on the block at the center an inch
> > or two down from the top.
> > Brian
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > I don't really see any easy way to get at the lower exhaust header
> > bolts that are on the bottom and burried.
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