>ENGINE TILTER. Check out http://www.eastwoodco.com for a picture of
>one. Makes like so much easier to tilt the engine/transmission to clear
>the front of the roadster, and then level back out. Being the cheap
>person I am, I made my own. Much heavier, with double safety features.
>
>I used used-but-good rear axle bearings from the roadster, and 1"
>steel bars. Lathe and milling machine work). So for 10 hours work,
>and $6 of material I have a pretty nice engine tilter.
For those of us who neither have a machine shop in our garage (I've seen
it) nor Tom's skills as a machinist, I bought a very serviceable tilter
from Harbor Freight for $25 when they opened a store here in Ft. Worth.
It's fine for the loads that we use them to move. If there's not a Harbor
Freight near you, they do sell mail order, as does Eastwood (as Tom
mentioned) and possibly Grainger.
Carrying this one step further, after checking on rental costs ($50/day)
for a cherry picker style engine hoist, I bought one at Sam's for $170
($200 less a $30 rebate). Since I knew I'd be swapping motors around
quite a bit, the math really did make sense. The legs on this unit fold
up so it can be stored in a fairly small floor area.
Need to store one or more of these fairly small motors we play with? Take
a 15 by 20 piece of 3/4 plywood and put casters on the corners of one
side. Make sure at least two, if not all, of the casters swivel. Screw a
couple lengths of 2 by 2 (or 2 by 4) on the top side spaced to support
the block on the pan rails. Pull the pan and the flywheel and rotate the
crank so that no throws are in the way. You can set the engine on this
and move it around your shop/garage by yourself.
FWIW, Ron
Ronnie Day
rday@cyberramp.net
___________
The ACL Group
Arlington, Texas
(817) 572-0873 (V)
(817) 478-2896 (F)
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