Barrie:
You will have already read my earlier response regarding the use of paint
vs beeswax. With a brand new body (newly dipped) I would use POR 15 in the
same manner as I suggested the tremclad - but first I would let the inner
parts rust a bit. You are doing this now by leaving your body "in the
white". Steel rusts immediately and continuously if it is not immediately
covered with a sealant/primer of some sort. Modern body work calls for
various two-part primers or urethane and/or vinyl primers. Check with your
body shop. Note that these primers depend on the type of final coat you
are going to use.
I suggested letting the bits rust because POR 15 bonds better to rusted
metal than to clean. It has to do with the chemical reaction between iron
rust and phosphoric acid which is used in the product.
You want something as near to permanent as you can get into the closed
spaces. Don't fool with wax - use a modern chemical.
John
>John,
>
>Read your chat with interest. Some things old are better than some things
>new, and some things new are better than some things old.
>But you mention Waxoyl - what do you know about it? I understand it is
>paraffin wax dissolved in mineral spirits and I was going to experiment
>with bees wax dissolved in something, not sure what. This because a
>coating of wax seems like a good protection from rust. So you comments
>would be of interest!
>
>
>
>At 08:55 PM 11/24/01 -0700, John McEwen wrote:
>>Further to the use of synthetics vs conventional oils, the drain interval
>>on synthetics is vastly extended because they don't form the nasty
>>byproducts during their interaction with the products of combustion because
>>synthetics don't have a petroleum base. The drain interval is extended for
>>normal service to between 25 and 30,000 km. For this reason alone, I fail
>>to see the merits of conventional oils - other than that old LBC standby,
>>price. Why muck up the engine with a load of good old crude oil compounds
>>when you can have something derived from a very neutral base. This stuff
>>won't make acid when it's mixed with water the way conventional oils will.
>>Semi-synthetics don't make much more sense than conventional oils because
>>of their petroleum content.
>>
>>I like synthetics. They've been used in jet aircraft since the '40s
>>(different type but still synthetic) and they are recommended for an
>>increasing number of modern automobiles. If your engine is not leaking or
>>burning copious quantities of oil this is the stuff. The cold startup
>>benefits plus the high temperature and heavy load benfits more than
>>outweigh any notions of cost - given the longer drain interval.
>>
>>For those of you who drive cars in winter, remember that the single
>>greatest period of engine wear occurs on cold startup. Synthetics are
>>there nearly immediately when other oils are so stiff they won't even pour
>>out of a can.
>>
>>Synthetics are now available in a great variety of viscosities including 15
>>- 50 which sounds ideal for most LBCs.
>>
>>Most people that are unsure about synthetics still tend to use non-silicone
>>brake fluid and insist on having their body work done with lead. Move on
>>into the 20th Century so that you can catch up to the 21st before it's too
>>late.
>>
>>Have you noticed how often on British car lists the discussion revolves
>>around those "damn modern" methods. Think about all of the people who
>>still believe that bondo is a curse, nitrocellulose lacquer is still the
>>best paint available, Waxoyl will solve rust problems, and silicone brake
>>fluid is the devil's invention.
>>
>>'nuff said
>>
>>John
>>
>>
>> >Fred,
>> >Can't you go longer between oil changes with a synthetic? I've heard
>> you can
>> >go 10,000 miles between changes - which offsets the extra cost of the oil.
>> >(Assuming synthetic costs approx. 3 times as much, you would about break
>> >even.) I've been running 1/2 synthetic Valvoline in my Saab and I'm up to
>> >265,000 miles with no engine problems yet. Typically changing the oil
>> >between 3,000 and 10,000 miles max. For the LBC I was thinking about it
>> more
>> >from a storage standpoint. I mean, since I don't drive the MGB that often,
>> >maybe I should run 100% synthetic in that engine. I'm cheap too, but
>> I'm all
>> >for trying to minimize problems before they start.
>> >
>> >don
>> >
>> >In a message dated 11/24/01 8:29:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>> >fredtal@industryinet.com writes:
>> >
>> >> Here is mine...if you change oil often, and you should, then why
>>spend the
>> >> extra money? My old Chevy truck ran 200,000 miles on Castrol 20W-50
>>with
>> >> the only engine part replaced being an oil pump. I'm cheap so there.
>> >>
>> >> Fred Talmadge
>> >> 1961 Elva Courier
>> >> S1 & S2 Lotus Elan
>
>Regards
>Barrie
>
>Barrie Robinson - barrier@bconnex.net
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