Tony, my father was a beekeeper. There's not a lot you can tell me about
beeswax. However I disagree that it will work as you hope - in the
applications I was discussing. Warming the wax to maintain lower viscosity
is certainly important but when it touches the cold steel in the sealed
sill, how long will it maintain that lower viscosity. The answer is "not
long enough". However, I suppose one could warm the area using a torch -
if it is not yet painted.
My method of using paint or POR 15 to completely fill the cavity is the
only way to ensure that all parts of the inside are coated. If you spray
the wax-oil mix how certain can you be that it is reaching the entire
surface - if you can only access it from a small opening or two?
Certainly the wax-oil mixture will work where you can control the spread
and determine that you have effectively sealed every space, however how can
a wax-oil mixture be better than a chemical bonding such as is achieved by
paint or 2-part compounds? I have no problem with using something after
the paint is dry - but is it necessary and how long does any one of us
expect to live?
if the job is done properly, an occasional followup with oil poured into
the interior of the space will ensure longevity. All of this pre-supposes
that the outer side of the various panels has been equally well protected.
In my experience with automobile rust, the biggest single problem is the
area where the inner fender meets the outer fender above wheels and around
splash pans, as well as areas around headlamps and lighting generally.
These area are not treatable by the "fill it with paint" method and they
are equally hard to access with spray-on waxes etc.
Has anyone a solution that we should all hear about?
John
>In a message dated 11/25/01 12:35:25 PM, mmcewen@ualberta.ca writes:
>
><< Both approaches are messy. Don't use the beeswax. The stuff in the
>pyramids was never exposed to water was it? The biggest problem with the
>wax is that it just won't penetrate as well as one would think and how do
>you get it to completely cover all inner surfaces? >>
>
> I tend to disagree about the effectiveness of the beeswax. The stuff in
>the pyramids wasn't exposed to water, true, but amphorae sealed with
>beeswax brought up from marine wrecks were still sealed. Homemade
>waxoyl with beeswax and mineral oil, thinned slightly with real turpentine
>is a good rust preventative for use in hidden crevices/cavities. Just warm
>slightly in a double boiler for a more liquid application. POR-15 and sim-
>ilar phosphoric acid based treatments/paints are effective too, just
>"messy" in a different way ;-)
>
>Tony in NJ
>W.A.S.T.E.
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