OK I'm not a chemist. But Yeah you can change to synthetic oil WHENEVA!
And yeah you can run the cheap and add one quart to the existing oil to
raise pressure. BUT the synthetics will pickup the sludge in the sump and
clogg your filter. Or so I'm told by those who distribute the stuff.
As for the drive train, I change them when I do a rebuild, but if I were
lazy,, I'd drain out the oil. refill with kerosene, Jack up the rear and
run it for about 15 minutes changing gears, and varying the RPM. Then I'd
drain it again and then put in the synthetic.
I like Nigel Wrench and try to keep him running so I tend to be a bit
fanatical
about him. For example when the head was redone I had all new guides and
valves put in. They don't have seals so I went spec. They burned oil
whenever I'd start the car (in fact Nigel didn"t like to start if
parked on an incline with the front higher than the rear.) The
valves `stuck. I had to have two more head jobs in 26,000 miles. On the
last job I added clearance on the guides and had PC seald dropped in. No
white smoke on startup.. No sticky Valves and now 12,000 miles lateer
Nigel hasn't lost his head since! Nigel also has a matched pair of DCOE
32/36's, a reground cam with the power curve to max at 2200 to 4500 rpm,
a ported head, a lightened flywheel, a wrapped
tubular header, a SS exaust, Gas shocks on all four's, heavy sway bars
front/rear, 72 spoke 6.5" Bridgestones (without tubes ( I'll share the
secret later)), Dot 5, A type overdrive (I've rebuilt completely) and an
oil cooler. Nigel goes smartly!
As for Dot 3/Dot 5. Hands down! Dot5!!! Also Nigel has Stainless sleeves
on all cylendars but the master brake. Look.. I hate ripping the
cylendars apart because the dot 3 got water and the aluminium turned to
white goo. I don't need this nonsense. George in Vermont resleeves them
for $35. Thats the price of a new one! Together with dot 5 I don't worry
about stopping.
Stan I Hope this helps!
Aloha.
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